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PGI — Champagne-Ardenne
Reared outdoors on the limestone heights of the plateau de Langres, these birds with firm flesh and thin skin carry the character of a high-altitude terroir unique in Champagne.
Free-range poultry from Champagne-Ardenne, PGI (IGP) since 1996.
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The plateau de Langres shares a relationship with poultry farming that reaches far back into local history. A cartulary from the abbaye de Montier-en-Der, drawn up in the 13th century, records that Charlemagne and his descendants — including Lothair, to whom the Bassigny fell under the Treaty of Verdun in 842 — were already demanding wine, oats, hay, hens and eggs from the monastery. The Langres 'Terrier', dated 1334, notes for its part three major annual fairs — Saint-Pierre, Saint-Michel and Sainte-Catherine — where cake and egg merchants rubbed shoulders in the square with sellers of duvets and feather mattresses.
This poultry tradition endured across the centuries through the vicissitudes of local history: a tale from 1576 relates how the village of Marcilly-en-Bassigny, threatened by approaching enemies, had to 'shut up the poultry yard' before being given over to the flames; as late as 1903, the canton of Clefmont produced enough eggs and poultry for a 'consommier' to set out each week to resell his collection at the markets of Langres and Chaumont. In 1960, the ferme des Tilleuls du Bassigny, in Lénizeul, established its own slaughterhouse — still approved today — before developing farm-based production among the plateau's breeders, recognised by the Label Rouge in 1990.
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The PGI specification describes the plateau de Langres as a vast limestone tableland whose altitude consistently exceeds 400 metres. Cut through by the valleys of the Seine, the Ource and the Aube, it extends the monts de Bourgogne to the north-east and forms the south-eastern boundary of the Paris Basin. The forests covering almost the entirety of its surface, the cold, damp climate and the isolated villages tucked away in clearings give this area an appearance that it describes itself as 'wild and secret'.
The same document directly asserts the link between this environment and the quality of the product: poultry reared on this terroir reportedly benefits from 'this pure, wholesome air' that makes them 'burst with health'. The high-altitude climate, cooler and harsher than that of the surrounding plains, encourages slower growth, a condition that the specification associates with the firmness of the flesh.
The Protected Geographical Indication 'Volailles du plateau de Langres' was registered on 21 June 1996, under Regulation (EC) No 1107/96, under file number IG/21/94. The specification credits poultry reared on the plateau with 'superior quality' attributes — firm flesh, thin skin — achieved through the outdoor rearing of slow-growing strains slaughtered at an age close to sexual maturity. The protected geographical area covers designated cantons of Haute-Marne and Côte-d'Or, including Langres, Chaumont, Auberive and Châteauvillain on the Haute-Marne side, and Châtillon-sur-Seine, Selongey and Recey-sur-Ource on the Côte-d'Or side. Its defence and management organisation (ODG) is now the association Qualinea, based in Charolles (Saône-et-Loire); inspection is carried out by Certipaq.
Appearance
Well-conformed birds with a robust, rounded silhouette, fine golden skin, and balanced, white fat of superior quality. Russet to light-brown plumage, serrated comb and bright red wattles. Firm flesh and thin skin — the two qualities that the PGI specification explicitly singles out.
Aroma
Clean, farmyard scent, herbaceous, evocative of outdoor rearing.
Taste
Pronounced free-range poultry flavour, juicy flesh with great length on the palate, lightly nutty.
Texture
Firm yet tender flesh on tasting, fine grain. Crispy skin upon cooking.
Volailles du plateau de Langres encompass several varieties, individually stated on the packaging according to the type: free-range white chicken, free-range Christmas turkey, free-range capon and free-range white capon.
the only variety detailed by the consulted specification: slaughtered at 81 days minimum, firm flesh, thin skin, achieved through low-density outdoor rearing.
, free-range capon and free-range white capon — festive varieties marketed under the same denomination and listed in the European registers of geographical indications; the consulted specification does not detail their specific rearing parameters.
The specification mandates hardy, slow-growing strains suited to extensive rearing; it does not name a specific breed.
Strictly regulated raw materials: a weighted average of 75% cereals from the 29th day until slaughter.
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Volailles du plateau de Langres, with their pronounced flavour and firm flesh, lend themselves to a variety of preparations. Simply roasted in the oven with tarragon butter, their flavour comes through fully. Stuffed capons are well suited to festive tables, particularly around Christmas.
The firm flesh allows for more robust cooking methods, with slightly longer in the oven, without any risk of drying out. A dry white Chablis, with its minerality, elegantly complements the delicate white meat. Light red wines (Pinot noir de Bourgogne) make an ideal match for dishes in sauce.
Since: 1996
Area covered: Cantons of Haute-Marne (52) and Côte-d'Or (21), including Langres, Chaumont, Auberive and Châtillon-sur-Seine
Key requirements: Low-density outdoor rearing (2 m² of range per chicken), slow-growing strains, chicken slaughter at 81 days minimum, feed consisting of 75% cereals from the 29th day
The PGI area extends across cantons falling under two different départements and two different administrative regions: Haute-Marne (52, Grand Est) and Côte-d'Or (21, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté). The plateau de Langres forms a coherent geographical unit straddling this administrative border.
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