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PDO — Normandy
The Norman gold of gastronomic tables — a rare butter whose legendary richness can only be measured by taste.
Dairy product or egg from Normandy, PDO (AOP) since 1986.
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Beurre d'Isigny traces its origins to the coastal Normandy marshes, a terroir that the local cooperative itself described as a veritable 'fountain of Butter and Cream' as early as the late 18th century. It was at the turn of the 20th century that the industry became structured: on 3 June 1909, fifty dairy producers from Sainte-Mère-Église and the Cotentin founded the Laiterie coopérative de Sainte-Mère-Église et du Cotentin, mortgaging their farms to raise 60,000 francs and build a factory in Chef-du-Pont, close to the Paris-Cherbourg railway line. In 1932, forty-two producers based around Isigny-sur-Mer in turn created the Laiterie coopérative d'Isigny-sur-Mer. The two cooperatives joined forces in 1980 under the name Union des Coopératives Laitières d'Isigny Sainte-Mère, before merging in 2000 to form the current Coopérative Isigny Sainte-Mère.
Faced with the usurpation of the 'Isigny' name by manufacturers from outside the region, local producers came together within the Syndicat Beurre et Crème d'Isigny to pursue, with the support of the INAO, an application for official recognition: the 'Beurre d'Isigny' appellation of origin was granted in 1986, and has since become a PDO.
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Isigny-sur-Mer, a coastal village in southern Manche, lies at the heart of the area defined by the INAO for the appellation — the 'Col du Cotentin' — comprising 175 communes (109 in Manche, 83 in Calvados), less than 30 km from Isigny-sur-Mer, spread across the watersheds of five rivers that flow into the Baie des Veys: the Aure, the Douve, the Vire, the Merderet, and the Taute. The INAO describes this area as having acquired, thanks to its soils and its temperate oceanic climate, a reputation as a grassland cru with 'opulent pastures, veritable fountains of cream and butter'.
The lush grass of these damp meadows is particularly rich in carotenoids, pigments that pass into the milk and then into the butter: this is what gives Beurre d'Isigny PDO its distinctive colour, from ivory to 'buttercup' yellow depending on the season of production — a deeper yellow in spring, when the grass is at its richest.
The temperate oceanic climate of the Baie des Veys allows grass to grow almost all year round, ensuring regular milk collection for producers.
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The cooperative founded in 1932 in Isigny-sur-Mer, which merged in 2000 with that of Sainte-Mère-Église, now exports its products to more than 100 countries. International expansion began in 1977 with the United States, continued in the 1980s with Great Britain — where the cooperative was a pioneer in selling crème fraîche — and then with Asia from 1985.
Beurre d'Isigny PDO, boasting at least 82% fat content for unsalted butter and 80% for semi-salted, is also produced as beurre de tourage for professionals: bakers and pastry chefs prize it for making puff pastry and viennoiseries.
On 6 June 1944, the day of the D-Day landings, the cooperative's factory was strafed by aircraft while German troops flooded the marshes to trap American paratroopers, rendering the pastures inaccessible: milk collection came to an abrupt halt. Production only returned to its pre-war level in the 1950s.
Appearance
Solid butter ranging in colour from ivory to 'buttercup' yellow, deeper in spring due to the carotenes in the Normandy milk.
Aroma
Frequent aromas of crème fraîche and hazelnut.
Taste
Rich, buttery flavour; for salted butter, a moderate salinity, with the quantity of incorporated salt limited by the specifications.
Texture
Soft and creamy, easy to spread.
Beurre d'Isigny PDO is marketed in two versions and a professional format:
unsalted, at least 82% fat content.
salt added in quantities limited by the specifications, at least 80% fat content.
packaged in 1 kg slabs for bakers and pastry chefs, for puff pastry and viennoiseries.
Milk produced in the PDO area ('Col du Cotentin', 175 communes in Manche and Calvados).
Separation of skimmed milk and rich cream, Crème d'Isigny PDO.
The matured cream is churned to form grains of butter.
The butter is washed with pure water to remove the buttermilk (whey).
The butter is kneaded until a smooth texture is achieved.
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At room temperature, Beurre d'Isigny reveals all its complexity. Spread on toasted bread, it expresses the purity of the Normandy marshes; with a fresh oyster, the pairing marries the iodine of the shellfish with the hazelnut notes of the butter. In professional kitchens, its tourage version makes it a sought-after ingredient for puff pastry and viennoiseries. The finest pairings are made with Loire white wines (Sancerre, Vouvray), dry Norman cider, and farmhouse calvados.
Since: 1986
Area covered: Calvados (14), Manche (50) — Col du Cotentin area
Key requirements: Milk from the PDO area, maturation of the cream, min. 82% fat content (unsalted) / 80% (semi-salted), no colourings or additives
Dairy cooperative
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