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PGI — Normandy
A snail of the waves, caught in artisanal pots in the cold waters of the Cotentin, whose sweet white flesh embodies the very essence of coastal Normandy.
Seafood from Normandy, PGI (IGP) since 2019.
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The bulot has long formed part of the traditional diet of Normandy's coastal communities: as early as the 19th century, it was gathered by hand or with a rake at low tide, and sought after as bait to hook more prized fish such as cod. At the end of the 19th century, pot fishing developed primarily to supply bait for the cod-fishing expeditions to Terre-Neuve, before a fisherman reported as early as 1947 the existence of targeted bulot fishing 'which dories go and fish in pots close to the coast'. The boom in commercial bulot fishing occurred during the second half of the 20th century, with the introduction of dedicated pots and slatted crates known as grêles for transport; as early as 1985, a resource management system (vessel size, gear type, fishing calendar) was established to preserve the artisanal character of this pot fishery. The process of seeking recognition as a Protected Geographical Indication began in 2005, with the creation of a 'Baie de Granville' brand by the CCI Ouest Normandie in 2009, followed by the submission of the PGI application by Normandie Fraîcheur Mer in 2013; the specifications were approved by the INAO in 2017 and the PGI was registered at European level in 2019.
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The baie de Granville, to the west of the Cotentin peninsula, constitutes the optimal biotope for the bulot: predominantly sandy, shallow seabeds (generally less than 30 metres deep), bathed by cool, well-churned waters, provide ideal conditions for the development of the Buccinum undatum species.
Geographically, the PGI fishing and landing zone extends from the pointe de Goury in the north (Hague) to the pointe de Champeaux in the south, across some forty coastal communes in the Manche, and harvesting is limited to a coastal strip of 30 nautical miles from the landing points. The coastline concerned represents around 70 km of foreshore accessible at high tide, with a dozen landing points spread across the slipways and ports along the coast. The bay experiences some of the strongest tides in Europe, with an average tidal range of 10.5 metres at Granville and currents reaching up to 2 knots; this great tidal range dictates fishing schedules, as the ports can only be accessed at high tide, limiting the duration of fishing trips to a maximum of 16 hours. The virtual absence of muddy seabeds, known to spoil the flavour of the bulot, contributes to the product's quality.
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Until the 1990s, the official commercial name of the shellfish was 'buccin', but locally the product was better known as 'bulot', a term originating from Normandy that eventually established itself as an official designation in its own right; the mollusc also bears local names such as calicoco, ran, bavoux, or berland. Since the 1980s, the Baie de Granville has established itself as the French heartland of bulot fishing and its traditional whole marketing, to the extent that until the late 2000s it accounted for virtually all domestic production and consumption. The product's reputation spread beyond the regional sphere thanks to the press and television: a feature on the programme 'Thalassa' was dedicated to it in May 1996, the magazine VSD presented it in 2012 as '80% originating from Normandy, and more specifically from the Baie de Granville', and Michelin-starred chef Guy Martin declared in 2014 on TV5 Monde that one should choose Bulot de la Baie de Granville 'because this bulot is a region, a savoir-faire, [...] a terroir, a sea'. Today, it is best known to the general public in the guise of 'bulot mayo', an essential staple of seafood platters.
Appearance
Gastropod shell, measured from the apex to the siphonal canal, with a commercial calibre of between 47 and 70 mm; often blonde in colour, ranging from white to dark brown and from greenish-white to dark green depending on the presence of algae, occasionally marked with reddish spots caused by microalgae. The foot is white, ivory to cream, flecked with black stripes and spots.
Aroma
Iodised, marine and reminiscent of seaweed, with no smell of mud.
Taste
Iodised, marine and hazelnut flavours after cooking, with no muddy taste.
Texture
Tender after cooking, with perceptible moisture and occasionally a slight crunch due to small sediments or shell fragments; not rubbery.
Only a single species is marketed under the PGI (Buccinum undatum), always sold whole in its shell, and is available according to the forms of presentation set out in the specification:
marketed within a maximum of 48 hours after landing.
cooked (in broth or steam) within a maximum of 48 hours after landing, optionally flavoured during or after cooking.
after cooking, for longer preservation; optional blanching may precede deep-freezing prior to subsequent cooking.
The bulots are landed alive, cleared of sediment and bait remnants, and packed in their grêles.
Dispatched within a maximum of 48 hours after landing.
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When bought raw, bulots should be soaked for an hour in cold water and then thoroughly rinsed, before being cooked for 10 to 12 minutes in salted water (starting cold) with aromatics; they are then left to cool in their cooking liquor before being drained — overcooking would make them rubbery. Served in their shells, they are extracted using a suitable pick (a simple toothpick will do); the inedible operculum is removed. The most popular preparation remains 'bulot mayo' or aioli, but the bulot can also be shelled and prepared as a tartare, grilled, or in a terrine. For pairings, a wine list suggests a Bourgogne Vézelay AOC, a Muscadet sur lie PDO (AOP), or a Cour-Cheverny blanc PDO.
Since: 2019
Area covered: Fishing and landing zone from the pointe de Goury to the pointe de Champeaux (Manche), coastal strip of 30 nautical miles
Key requirements: Artisanal fishing boats < 12 m; catch exclusively by baited pot; fishing trips ≤ 16 h; calibre 47–70 mm; sorting, rinsing and boxing in grêles on board; without ice; first sale ≤ 16 h after landing; marketed live or processed ≤ 48 h after landing; complete traceability by boat, batch and stage
Fish auction market (semi-public company)
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