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Centre-Val de Loire
A small triangular biscuit passed through boiling water before the oven, celebrated every March in Mézières by La Brenne with its fair, its brotherhood, and its best échaudé of the year.
Pastry or bakery speciality from Centre-Val de Loire.
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The échaudé owes its name to hot water: its dough is 'scalded'—that is, plunged into boiling water—before being baked in the oven, resulting in a small, dry, triangular, golden biscuit that is more or less puffed up. Originally, it was merely water and flour, a biscuit of scarcity or Lent that the website Anecdotrip notes has been known since the Hundred Years' War; butter and eggs are added today.
Anecdotrip ranks échaudés amongst the oldest cakes in France. The Dictionnaire historique des institutions, mœurs et coutumes de la France finds mention of them in a 1202 charter from the cathedral of Paris, and recounts that in 1231 the widow Émeline received the right from the monks of Saint-Denis to come and collect a loaf of bread and an échaudé from their bakery on feast days. Saint Louis, who forbade bakers from doing any work on Sundays and feast days, nevertheless allowed them to bake them on those days for the poor. In the Centre region, the earliest known mention dates to 1240, at the abbey of Saint-Chéron, in Eure-et-Loir.
A blog post also reports that these pastries are said to have accompanied the crusaders as far as Palestine, because they could be kept for a very long time without losing their flavour.
The Tables & Auberges de l'Indre directory lists the échaudé de la Brenne among the department's pastries, alongside the beugnon, the sanciau, the croquet de Charost, and the massepain d'Issoudun. The échaudé is not unique to La Brenne: according to Anecdotrip, Aveyron and Tarn have made it a speciality, but many are found across the departments of central France.
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It is in Mézières-en-Brenne, in the Indre, that échaudés are found in abundance, on the occasion of the Foire des Échaudés, which is held each year in mid-March. The first fish and échaudé fair was held in 1983; the Confrérie des croqueux d'échaudés was founded in 1985, and it is during the fair that the best échaudé is elected.
Appearance
A small triangular cake, puffed up and more or less golden.
Taste
A flavour that may reveal a touch of aniseed.
Texture
A dry biscuit.
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Échaudés are consumed mainly during Lent and on religious festivals, and they keep for a long time. In Mézières-en-Brenne, they are eaten with 'vin gris' on Whit Monday.
No producer is listed for this product yet.