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PGI — Picardy
‘The Haricot de Soissons is the white giant of Picardie, the wonder that melts in the mouth...’
Pulse from Picardy, PGI (IGP) since 2023.
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A legend associated with the Haricot de Soissons dates back to a 15th-century plague epidemic: while fleeing the town, the inhabitants are said to have dropped bean seeds along the way, inadvertently sowing them in fields and along watercourses. Upon their return, the seeds had germinated, and the unexpected harvest spared them from famine. Documented cultivation of the Haricot de Soissons dates back to the 18th century: the département of Aisne was renowned at the time for its dried beans, and the Soissons bean established itself as the variety most appreciated by Parisians, praised as early as 1767 by the Gazetin du comestible and later, in 1804, by the gastronomic critic Grimod de la Reynière — ‘Soissons is the region of France reputed to produce the finest beans’.
The bean is characterised by its kidney shape and uniform white to ivory colour, with a minimum size of 17 mm in length and 10 mm in width. Derived from the botanical species Phaseolus coccineus, it produces a climbing, hardy and vigorous plant, staked to grow upwards.
The dry bean trade enlivened the region from the 19th century onwards, dispatched predominantly to Paris and Rouen by Soissons merchants; as early as 1908, a syndicate was formed to defend the name ‘Soissons’ against unfair competition. This momentum gained structure at the turn of the 2000s: the Association des Producteurs de Haricot de Soissons was established in 2001 and guided the recognition process, whilst the Coopérative agricole du Haricot de Soissons, founded in 2003, now brings together over 80% of producers for preparation and marketing. Driven by this collective of producers, the Coopérative, the Confrérie Gastronomique des Compagnons du Haricot de Soissons and the Région Hauts-de-France, the initiative culminated on 2 June 2023: the European Commission registered the ‘Haricot de Soissons’ as a PGI.
Today, lovers of French gastronomy are rediscovering this gem of Picardie. Picard cassoulet, potée de Soissons, autumn salads: the giant white bean brings its delicate flavour and incomparable texture to generations of traditional dishes. Every year since 2005, the Fête du Haricot de Soissons brings together 50,000 to 60,000 visitors in the town.
Appearance
Large, kidney-shaped bean of uniform white to ivory colour, measuring at least 17 mm in length and 10 mm in width. Thin skin, which becomes virtually imperceptible after soaking and cooking.
Aroma
Slight hint of dried pulse when raw; upon cooking, a delicate aroma of butter and hazelnut, very subtle and discreet.
Taste
Subtle and delicate, with fine notes of butter and hazelnut, without the bitterness sometimes found in other varieties. Noble and generous without being overpowering.
Texture
Holds its shape remarkably well during cooking after soaking for at least 12 hours; tender, melt-in-the-mouth texture.
On plots selected to avoid frost, with row spacing that encourages aeration and sunlight for the plant.
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Soaking for at least 12 hours is required before cooking: it softens the bean, leaving the skin virtually imperceptible. Then pour the beans into a court-bouillon with an onion studded with cloves and a sprig of thyme, and simmer gently without salt (which toughens the skin). You will obtain a creamy, velvety and delicate pulse. Excellent hot as an accompaniment to meat (mutton, beef, pork, poultry, game) or fish, or cold in salads.
Pairings: Autumn and winter game, Picard charcuterie, rich broths, light Val de Loire wines.
Since: 2023
Area covered: Arrondissements of Château-Thierry, Laon and Soissons (Aisne) in their entirety, + neighbouring communes listed in the product specification
Key requirements: Phaseolus coccineus species; kidney-shaped bean, white to ivory, ≥ 17 mm × 10 mm, moisture 12–17%; manual harvest at maturity (dried, brown pods); threshing, sorting and dry storage; marketed as dry beans only
Registered on 2 June by the European Commission.
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