Roupettes de Charroux, dish

History & Origins

The "poultry caviar" of the kings of France

Behind the curious name of "roupettes" lie cockerel testicles, a rustic and unusual speciality of Bourbonnais gastronomy. According to tradition reported by several sources, this dish was nicknamed "poultry caviar" in the days of the kings of France: François I is said to have reserved it for his young knights or squires, whilst Louis XIV made it one of his favourite dishes. Bourgeois families also relished it, most often prepared "en vol-au-vent".

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A tradition saved from oblivion by the Maenner family

Yet roupettes very nearly vanished forever from Bourbonnais gastronomy. They owe their return to the table to an artisan family, the Maenners, based in Charroux — a village listed among the « Plus Beaux Villages de France » — who, in 1989, revived the tradition of cooking the male attributes of the farmyard rulers. The same family also revived another local speciality that had fallen into disuse, moutarde de Charroux, brought back into favour during those same years by Claude and Simone Maenner.

From a farmstead speciality to a product of the Moutarderie de Charroux

On the large Bourbonnais farms, cockerel cockscombs — which traditionally accompany roupettes — were reserved for the master of the house. Today, the Moutarderie de Charroux, run by the descendants of the Maenner family, sells "roupettes de coqs en gelée" alongside "crêtes de coqs au naturel", complementing its mustard production.

Product characteristics

Sensory profile

Aspect

Round and plump.

Goût

Flavourful, particularly appreciated pan-fried in persillade.

Texture

Tender.

Varieties

Roupettes can be enjoyed plain, pan-fried and seasoned with a persillade, or preserved "en gelée" as sold by the Moutarderie de Charroux. A more elaborate preparation combines them with cockscombs in a stuffing, in the recipe for poulet bourbonnais aux roupettes et crêtes de coq.

How it is made

Pochage

after draining, the roupettes, and traditionally the cockscombs, are poached in water.

Poêlée à la persillade

for the simplest preparation, they are browned in a little butter, seasoned with a light persillade, then moistened with… Read more

for the simplest preparation, they are browned in a little butter, seasoned with a light persillade, then moistened with a little cream.

En farce

for a more elaborate version, poached roupettes and combs are cut into small pieces and combined with Bourbonnais chicke… Read more

for a more elaborate version, poached roupettes and combs are cut into small pieces and combined with Bourbonnais chicken meat to stuff poultry breasts, which are then steamed.

Tasting & pairings

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The recipe for poulet bourbonnais aux roupettes et crêtes de coq serves them accompanied by two mustards from the terroir: moutarde pourpre de Saint-Pourçain for the legs, and moutarde de Charroux for the stuffed breasts. Specialists also recommend enjoying the combs lightly tossed in butter and added to a mixed salad.

Roupettes de Charroux

At a glance