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PGI — Label Rouge — Franche-Comté
In the secrecy of the tuyés, where fir smoke has risen slowly for centuries, the Belle de Morteau is born — plump, firm, amber-hued, its wooden peg tied at one end, and carrying within it the entire soul of the Haut-Doubs.
Charcuterie speciality from Franche-Comté, PGI (IGP) since 2010.
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The making of saucisse de Morteau dates back to at least the 16th century, to the era when Franche-Comté peasants — the 'Montagnons' of the Haut-Doubs — cleared the plateaux and forests of the Jura massif to establish pastures and farms. In harmony with this environment of softwoods and rich pastures, they built massive farmhouses whose heart was an immense wooden pyramidal hood, twelve to fifteen metres high: the tuyé. This giant chimney was not used merely for heating and cooking — it was above all a natural smokehouse. Meats, sausages, hams and cheeses were hung inside, exposed to the slow, cold smoke of softwoods.
In this isolated mountain environment, the sausage became an essential preserved food. The recipe gradually became codified: a natural casing generously filled with lean and fat from pigs fed on whey from local cheese dairies. Originally, the sausage was closed at both ends with a thorn-wood peg; today, the casing is pinched, turned back and held at one end by a wooden peg, and tied at the other with natural-fibre string — a distinctive technique that remains the visual signature of the Morteau and its official mark of recognition. The sausage is hung in the tuyé, where it smokes slowly above a bed of softwood sawdust (fir, spruce) and juniper branches.
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Long made without official protection, the Morteau saw its Haut-Doubs artisans obtain a regional label as early as 1977 — the first official quality mark guaranteeing origin and traditional manufacture. The struggle for European recognition culminated in 2010 with the granting of PGI status. Since 2006, the finest producers can also aim for the Label Rouge, reserved for sausages made exclusively from Label Rouge pork, with no spice other than salt and pepper — a 'plain' sausage smoked for at least 48 hours in a traditional tuyé, produced by only 8 cured-meat makers, all based in the Haut-Doubs.
The saucisse de Morteau stands out immediately on a charcuterie board: plump (minimum diameter of 3.4 cm for pieces under 150 g, 4 cm beyond that), slightly curved, its skin is a handsome, uniform amber-brown imparted by the smoke. Its wooden peg, driven into one of its ends, is its certificate of identity. The meat, densely packed and coarsely minced, ranges from pink to dark red depending on the length of smoking. It differs distinctly from the saucisse de Montbéliard — thinner, shorter, and smoked more quickly — through its bolder character and more compact texture.
Appearance
Thick cylindrical sausage, amber skin between brown and golden, a wooden peg at one end.
Aroma
Softwood smoke distinctly present on the raw product, notes of fir and juniper.
Taste
Balanced and lingering smokiness on the palate without being acidic or acrid, assertive meat flavour (coarsely minced), salt and pepper.
Texture
Firm when raw, tender and supple when cooked, juicy mouthfeel.
Classic PGI — the standard: smoking for a minimum of 6 hours in a conventional smokehouse (up to 48 hours in a thué or traditional smokehouse), natural casing, wooden peg at one end. Produced by the 29 cured-meat makers in the PGI zone (Doubs, Jura, Haute-Saône, Territoire de Belfort).
PGI Label Rouge — the pinnacle: exclusively Label Rouge pork, plain recipe (salt + pepper only), smoking in a traditional tuyé for at least 48 hours, 8 authorised producers, all in the Haut-Doubs.
Jésus de Morteau — the large version: same recipe, much wider casing (minimum diameter 6.5 cm), an even longer smoking time due to its thick gauge. Reserved for festive occasions and large gatherings, traditionally for Christmas.
An optional step before smoking, at an ambient temperature of maximum 30–40°C, to initiate drying.
After smoking, the sausage is matured for a few days to harmonise the aromas before marketing.
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The benchmark cooking method is cooking in simmering water: immerse the cold Morteau in unsalted water, bring to a simmer (never a rolling boil) and cook without pricking — piercing the casing would let the juices and flavour escape. It can also be enjoyed hot or cold, baked in the oven surrounded by potatoes and onions, or set upon a bed of lentils in a casserole. The traditional pairings are unchanging: lentils, potatoes, green salad, choucroute franc-comtoise, or indeed cancoillotte, another Franche-Comté speciality that accompanies it delightfully. On the wine side, a local white wine complements the Jésus de Morteau well; enthusiasts gladly pair it with a Vin Jaune from the Jura, whose oxidative character and walnut notes answer the softwood smoke.
Since: 2010
Area covered: Doubs (25), Jura (39), Haute-Saône (70), Territoire de Belfort (90)
Key requirements: Natural casing, wooden peg at one end, min. 6 hours' smoking in a conventional smokehouse over softwood, pork reared in Franche-Comté
Since: 2006
Area covered: Haut-Doubs uniquement
Key requirements: Label Rouge pork, plain recipe (salt + pepper only), min. 48 hours' smoking in a traditional tuyé, 8 authorised producers
Family-run artisan
Artisan
Family-run
Artisanal manufacturer
Family business
Family business
Family-run
Artisanal industry
Artisanal manufacturer
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