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Lorraine
On the other side of the Vosges ridges, the same peasant tradition as in Alsace: layers of potatoes and bacon simmering for hours in a cast-iron casserole, à l'étouffée.
Traditional dish from Lorraine.
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The term "tofailles", also heard as "toffâyes" in Gérardmer or "tofôlles" in La Bresse, comes from the Hautes-Vosges dialect and means "à l'étouffée" — the cooking method that gives the dish its name. Furthermore, this Vosges dish is not quite the same depending on where it is prepared, and has several different pronunciations depending on the commune. This dialectal variation echoes that of its Alsatian cousin, roïgabrageldi, whose name also changes from valley to valley — Roibrageldi, Roïgebradeldi, Roïgebraegeldi, Ràuibragelda…
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Tofailles are indeed the Vosges version of a dish found under different names on either side of the massif: in the Haut-Rhin area of Alsace, the same alternating layers of potatoes, bacon and onions cooked à l'étouffée are called roïgabrageldi. On the Hautes-Vosges side, tofailles remain a very common dish in the fermes-auberges of the high pastures, served as part of the "repas marcaire" — this hearty, traditional meal of the herdsman-cheesemaker (the "marcaire") that brought together soup, smoked meat and a potato dish. Several fermes-auberges in the Hautes-Vosges still carry on this tradition today.
Appearance
Layers of potatoes melted into a thick mass, almost a coarse mash, golden on the surface at the end of cooking.
Aroma
Smoked bacon and confit onions, with the scent of melted butter.
Taste
Comforting and rustic, the melt-in-the-mouth potato carrying the smokiness of the bacon.
Texture
Melt-in-the-mouth at the centre, firmer and golden on the surface.
the potatoes are peeled and cut into thin rounds, the onions thinly sliced.
some versions are finished for a few minutes uncovered or in the oven to brown the surface.
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Tofailles are served piping hot, traditionally accompanied by slices of smoked pork collar or shoulder and a green salad that brings freshness to balance this rich dish. Like their Alsatian cousin, they naturally find their place in a full repas marcaire, between soup and mountain cheese.
No official label: tofailles are a peasant dish of oral tradition, passed down from ferme-auberge to ferme-auberge in the Hautes-Vosges, with no formal protection sought.
No producer is listed for this product yet.