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Auvergne
A neat parcel of veal paunch rolled crosswise, simmered for hours in its tomato sauce — Tripoux de Maurs is the gourmet memory of a Cantal abattoir turned tradition.
Traditional dish from Auvergne.
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The creation of Tripoux de Maurs dates back to the initiative of Alfred Buffier, a tripe butcher at the Maurs abattoir, who sought to make the most of the 'lesser cuts' that nobody knew how to showcase. He called on local charcutiers — Louinou Cantournet, his brother-in-law, Gaston Teissedre, André Delcorn, Jean Cayrou, and 'la Mère Charme' — who set to work, each with their own way of preparing the dish. Its success was down to an inimitable sauce unique to Tripoux de Maurs; restaurateurs of the era, such as Cifre, Lassale, and Hélène Delamaide, soon added the recipe to their menus.
The charcutiers of Maurs were in the habit of sending their produce as far as Paris. André Cayrou, son of Jean, returned from military service and worked for a time alongside his father; noticing that the fame of tripoux had spread beyond the borders of Cantal alone, he began making them commercially, founding the 'Père Jean' brand in Maurs in 1938 and distributing it across the country. The name is protected by a trademark registered with the INPI: the term 'Authentique' followed by a geographical indication is reserved solely for tripe produced within the département and neighbouring cantons, while the spelling 'Tripoux' — rather than 'Tripous' — remains specific to the Maurs area.
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Following the end of industrial production in Maurs itself, a group of residents decided to keep this culinary tradition of friendship and sharing alive: the Confrérie du Tripoux de Maurs was founded, placed under the protection of Saint Césaire. A non-profit association (association loi 1901) based in Saint-Étienne-de-Maurs (Cantal), it was registered with the préfecture in late 2023 with the aims of championing the culinary heritage of Tripoux de Maurs, defending the terroir, and promoting the product. Each year, it celebrates the dish during 'La Nuit du Tripoux' in late November in Saint-Étienne-de-Maurs, at 'El Jordana del Tripoux' in Maurs-Quézac, and takes part in the Foire Agricole et Fête de Maurs.
Appearance
A small parcel of veal paunch rolled into a paupiette ('roudelou'), traditionally tied crosswise with narrow pork casing, weighing around 110 grams. Some makers close the parcel without string, using a small pork casing.
Taste
Veal, the historical base of Tripoux de Maurs — Maurs having long been a dairy-farming area —, clearly sets it apart from tripoux d'Aurillac, which is prepared with lamb pansette. The white wine tomato sauce, seasoned with spices and herbs, deeply infuses the meat throughout the long cooking process.
Texture
Meltingly tender, the result of the six to seven hours of slow cooking essential to tenderise the paunch and bring the sauce together.
Tripoux de Maurs is distinguished from tripoux d'Aurillac by its base of veal rather than lamb. Following the end of historical production in Maurs itself, several artisan houses still keep the recipe alive in the canton today — Cruzel, Mas, Veyres, Berger —, alongside the Père Jean brand, created in Maurs in 1938 and since distributed throughout France.
the veal paunch is filled with off-cuts of pansette, a little lamb, garlic, and parsley.
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Long a weekend snack for the locals of Maurs, Tripoux de Maurs can now be found in butchers' and charcuteries, delicatessens, supermarkets, and at wholesalers, reaching as far as Rungis. A few Cantal chefs reinterpret it on their menus: Bruno Giral, at Le Nautilus in Saint-Flour, serves it as a lasagne instead of beef; Patrice Duclos, at Geneviève, prepares it as a rouelle served with lentilles blondes de Saint-Flour.
Tripoux de Maurs is not protected by any official quality sign (PDO (AOP), PGI (IGP), Label Rouge...). Its name — 'Tripoux', and not 'Tripous' — is a trademark registered with the INPI, reserved for tripe produced in the département and neighbouring cantons. Since 2023, the Confrérie du Tripoux de Maurs, placed under the protection of Saint Césaire, has preserved and defended this culinary tradition; current production is centred on the canton of Maurs, sustained by several artisan producers (Cruzel, Mas, Veyres, Berger).
No producer is listed for this product yet.