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PGI — Alsace
The queen of the Alsatian spring — a noble vegetable cultivated beneath sandy mounds since 1873, which the Rhine plain and the Kochersberg nurture into pearly white, turning every April into a ritual eagerly awaited all year round.
Vegetable from Alsace, PGI (IGP) since 2005.
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Asparagus is not Alsatian by birth — it was a pastor who introduced it. Louis Gustave Heyler, a pastor ministering in Philippeville, in French Algeria, discovered asparagus cultivation there. Struck by the resemblance between the well-draining sandy soils of that arid region and those of the Rhine plain, he arrived in Hoerdt (Bas-Rhin) in 1869 convinced that the Alsatian terroir could produce excellent asparagus. The first plantings took place in 1873, with Erfurt varieties soon cross-bred with the Argenteuil blanche to give rise to the asperge de Hoerdt. He succeeded in convincing the farmers of his parish to embark upon this new crop.
The gamble paid off: Hoerdt became the 'capital of Alsace asparagus', a title the commune still claims today through its dedicated museum. Asparagus cultivation subsequently spread throughout the Rhine plain — as early as 1910 to Lampertheim, the second 'asparagus capital' — and then towards the Kochersberg.
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Asparagus cultivation took root so deeply in Alsatian rural society that it spawned its own rituals, starting with a very real marriage: that of asparagus and ham. Every spring, it is customary in Alsace to enjoy a plate of white asparagus accompanied by ham — a culinary alliance that the Fédération des Bouchers Charcutiers Traiteurs d'Alsace and the Association pour la Promotion de l'Asperge d'Alsace celebrate together as 'the marriage of ham and asparagus'. A marriage that demands patience on the production side: it takes two years for an asparagus plant to begin producing, and three years before a full harvest is possible.
Like many terroir products, Asperges d'Alsace suffered from industrial competition in the second half of the 20th century. Structuring the sector around the PGI, obtained in 2005 (BOCCRF 2005-04), made it possible to protect the name and revitalise the promotion of the product. It relies on the Association pour la Promotion de l'Asperge d'Alsace, founded in 1991, which today brings together a portion of the region's producers. In total, the Alsatian sector numbers around 225 producers, for an annual production of approximately 2,200 tonnes across nearly 480 hectares.
Production is divided between two complementary terroirs:
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Sandy soil is the sine qua non of production: asparagus requires sandy, loamy-sand or silty-clay soils free from standing water, and grows beneath sand mounds (known as 'billons'), which keep the spear sheltered from light and allow it to be harvested easily with the gouge. The sunshine — amongst the highest in France — and low rainfall of the Alsatian terroir, combined with these light soils, give Asperges d'Alsace their tender texture and delicate flavour.
Alsatian production is dominated at around 95% by white asparagus, but it is also possible to find Alsatian green and purple asparagus:
grown entirely beneath sandy mounds, without any exposure to sunlight. Pearly white to ivory colour, tightly closed tip. Tender texture, fine and delicate flavour, slightly sweet and herbaceous. The most emblematic and most prized.
grown in the same way as white asparagus, but the tip is exposed to a few hours of sunlight as it emerges from the ground, giving it a purplish hue and a slightly more fruity, bitter flavour. A transition between white and green.
grown in the open air, without mounds. Exposes the entire spear to sunlight. More pronounced, robust flavour, slightly herbaceous and bitter. Firmer texture. Requires little or no peeling.
Appearance
Straight spear, pearly white, tightly closed tip. Minimum diameter of 16 mm for the Extra Class, 12 mm for Class I.
Aroma
Fresh, delicately vegetal with notes of spring hazelnut.
Flavour
Fine, sweet, with a touch of bitterness on the finish (a sign of freshness).
Freshness
Harvested in the morning. Keeps in the refrigerator, wrapped in a damp cloth.
asparagus grows rapidly in warm weather, requiring daily inspection of the ridges to harvest at the right stage.
Yield: a plantation takes two to three years to come into production. Ferme Maurer, in Dorlisheim, alone cultivates 900,000 asparagus plants.
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White Asperges d'Alsace often need little accompaniment. Classic preparations:
Since: 2005
Area covered: Alsace (production, peeling and packaging)
Key requirements: Minimum calibre 12 mm (Class I) and 16 mm (Extra Class), offered for sale within 4 days of harvest, cooling within 12 hours, humid cold chain, traceability from producer to consumer
Family-run
Family-run farm
Family-run
Farm — direct sales
Cooperative
Family-run
Family-run
Family-run
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