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PGI — Label Rouge — Midi-Pyrénées
With its silky, pearlescent bean, the Haricot Tarbais is the soul of Gers cassoulet and the pride of the plains of Bigorre — an exceptional pulse that Pyrenean farmers have cultivated ever since beans first arrived in Europe.
Pulse from Midi-Pyrénées, PGI (IGP) since 2000.
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Native to South America, the bean arrived in Europe in the 16th century in the wake of the great explorations. Yet it was not until the early 18th century that it became established in the plain of Tarbes: Monseigneur de Poudenx, bishop of the diocese of Tarbes, introduced it at that time — alongside maize — to cope with a period of famine. A climbing plant, the bean naturally found an ideal stake in maize stalks; the two companion crops, known as 'haricot maïs', spread rapidly across the plain of Bigorre, reaching their peak in 1881 with 18,500 hectares cultivated.
Local culinary tradition quickly established this bean in cassoulet — or rather, in the Gascon version of this legendary dish. While Castelnaudary claims to be the cradle of cassoulet, Bigorre cooks maintain that their Haricot Tarbais, incomparably finer and creamier than standard white beans, is the only one suited to the authentic recipe. This debate, as lively today as it was in the last century, has in any case contributed to the international renown of Haricot Tarbais.
The rise of high-yielding hybrid maize in the 1950s sounded the death knell for this companion cropping, reducing it to a few domestic kitchen gardens before a handful of growers revived it — leading to the founding of the Coopérative du Haricot Tarbais in 1988. Label Rouge, awarded in 1997, was its first official recognition — with Haricot Tarbais becoming the first French white bean to receive such distinction — followed by PGI in 2000, which protects the designation and defines its production area. Since then, production has remained modest, never exceeding 200 tonnes even in bumper years, with the sector also vulnerable to climate hazards (such as the droughts of 2022 and 2023).
Dried Haricot Tarbais is a matt white, occasionally slightly creamy in colour, flat and sub-reniform to reniform (kidney-shaped), measuring between 1.5 and 2.5 cm in length. Its skin is remarkably thin, allowing it to cook more quickly than most other dried beans. Once soaked and cooked, it takes on a warm cream hue and swells generously.
On the palate, cooked Haricot Tarbais offers a non-floury, soft and thoroughly melting texture — without the toughness or graininess of ordinary varieties. The flavour is mild and slightly buttery, with subtle vegetal notes. It absorbs cooking juices admirably, soaking up the aromas of the meats and herbs with which it simmers.
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Haricot Tarbais is a very vigorous climbing plant (growing up to 2.5 metres tall), sown between late April and late May, which must be supported on stakes — either on standing maize stalks, in the tradition of 'haricot maïs', or on netting. The harvesting of fresh pods is carried out entirely by hand over several passes, owing to the plant's staggered flowering; dried beans may be picked by hand or harvested mechanically once the pods have dried on the plant.
The pods are then stored under shelter and dried — naturally or mechanically — before being threshed and sorted batch by batch. Each batch of dried beans undergoes heat treatment against weevils, as fumigation is prohibited. The product specification imposes strict criteria regarding size (1.5 to 2.5 cm), colour (white to creamy white) and moisture content (12 to 17%).
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Thanks to its thin skin, Haricot Tarbais requires only two hours of soaking in lukewarm water — far less than most dried beans — followed by gentle cooking for around an hour and a half, avoiding adding salt until the end so as not to harden the skin. It is a key ingredient in Gascon cassoulet — alongside duck confit, saucisse de Toulouse and sometimes lamb shank — but also shines in rustic soups, warm salads dressed with olive oil and fresh herbs, or simply braised with a few cloves of garlic and a sprig of thyme.
It pairs naturally with the red wines of neighbouring Madiran, whose powerful, fruity tannins find a perfect counterpoint in the bean's creamy softness. A supple red Côtes de Gascogne is well suited to lighter dishes.
Haricot Tarbais designates a unique local landrace (Phaseolus vulgaris) propagated from certified seeds derived from local heritage stock. It is sold fresh in the pod or dried as beans. Producers also offer tinned Haricot Tarbais (canned, prepared or plain), which preserve the melting texture, even if lacking the charm of the fresh product.
Since: 2000
Area covered: Hautes-Pyrénées (< 700 m) and neighbouring cantons of Gers, Haute-Garonne and Pyrénées-Atlantiques
Key requirements: Local landrace, grown on maize supports or netting, harvested by hand (fresh) or by hand/mechanically (dried), batch and plot traceability
Since: 1997
Area covered: Hautes-Pyrénées (< 700 m) and neighbouring cantons of Gers, Haute-Garonne and Pyrénées-Atlantiques
Key requirements: Size 1.5–2.5 cm, colour white to creamy white, moisture content 12–17%, free from defects
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