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PGI — Poitou-Charentes
Born of the cold waters of the Atlantic and matured in claires, Huîtres Marennes Oléron carry within them the taste of the coastal terroir — iodised salt, fleshy delicacy, and that legendary green hue.
Seafood from Poitou-Charentes, PGI (IGP) since 2009.
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Oyster farming in the Marennes-Oléron basin dates back to Antiquity: oysters from the Golfe Santon, the ancestor of this basin, were already among the most prized along the Atlantic coast. In the 16th century, Charles de la Oléron was regarded as one of the first farmer-affineurs: he is credited with creating the first claires on the left bank of the Seudre, replacing the 'gardours' — simple ponds where the oysters were held before sale — with true maturing basins. The movement then gathered momentum: more than 7,000 claires were recorded as early as 1738, and the word 'claire' appeared for the first time in the Dictionnaire Raisonné des Sciences, des Arts et des Métiers in 1753.
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The Marennes-Oléron basin is fed with fresh water by the Seudre to the south and by the Charente to the north: this balance between river inflows and oceanic waters shapes the claires, shallow former salt marshes where water circulates by gravity to the rhythm of the tides. Maturing there lasts a minimum of 14 to 28 days depending on the density of the oysters, with an additional 5 to 15 days of greening that may follow for green varieties. This green hue comes from a benthic diatom, Haslea ostrearia (known as the 'blue navicula'), which pigments the gills thanks to a natural pigment, marennine.
The reputation of the basin's oysters is long-standing: as early as 1698, the Intendant of the Navy at Rochefort noted regarding Marennes that 'the green oysters of Marennes enjoy a great reputation'. This renown spanned the centuries all the way to the royal court, with the prestige of Huîtres Marennes Oléron owing a great deal to King Louis XIV, a keen enthusiast of 'Marennes vertes'. Even today, an IFREMER survey highlights that 74% of French consumers recognise this origin and that 51% prefer it to other oyster-farming basins.
Appearance
Grey-beige shell, medium-sized cupped oyster, translucent greenish flesh, abundant liquor
Aroma
Iodised aromas, marine notes, subtle saline freshness
Taste
Remarkable sweet-salty balance, delicate flesh, lingering iodised finish
Texture
Delicate, fleshy meat, milky juices, slippery texture
Extended stay of at least 4 months for firmer, fleshier meat
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These oysters are enjoyed plain, fresh from the water, to reveal their sweet-salty balance and lingering iodised finish. Their delicate, fleshy meat, with its slippery texture and generous liquor, bears witness to the lengthy maturing in claires that gives them this much sought-after green hue.
Since: 2009
Area covered: 27 communes in Charente-Maritime (Marennes Oléron coastline)
Key requirements: Natural spat collection or hatchery; maturing in claires for a minimum of 14 to 28 days depending on density (rearing ≥ 4 months for Pousse en Claire); flesh index 7 to 10.5 (Fines de Claires), ≥ 10.5 (Spéciales de Claires), ≥ 12 (Spéciales Pousse en Claire)
Producer organisation
Company
Farm
Family-run
EARL
Artisan
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