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PDO — Midi-Pyrénées
A minimum of twenty-four months of patience and mountains — jambon noir de Bigorre is the Pyrenean answer to Iberian ham, an exceptional charcuterie born of the revival of a breed on the brink of extinction.
Charcuterie speciality from Midi-Pyrénées, PDO (AOP) since 2017.
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The porc noir de Bigorre is an ancient Gascon breed: the link between the animal and Bigorre was established as early as the 11th century, when Cluniac Benedictine monks founded numerous abbeys in the region and developed its rearing there. Refocused on its Pyrenean cradle from the 17th century, and especially at the start of the 20th century, the breed came close to extinction, ill-suited to the demands of intensive farming and industrial consumption. In 1981, only thirty-four sows and two boars remained, across twenty farmers in Hautes-Pyrénées: it was from this remnant nucleus that the safeguarding of the breed began.
Jambon noir de Bigorre is the flagship of this revival. Its production aims for absolute excellence: pigs reared outdoors on grassy and wooded runs from the age of six months, a diet supplemented with acorns and chestnuts foraged on the pasture, slaughter between twelve and twenty-four months, followed by curing for at least twenty months in natural drying rooms ventilated by Pyrenean winds.
The PDO, recognised by the European Union in September 2017, crowns more than thirty years of effort and establishes jambon noir de Bigorre as one of Europe’s great hams. Its production remains limited, and its high price places it in the category of exceptional products destined for discerning connoisseurs.
When sliced, jambon noir de Bigorre is distinguished by its vivid red colour tending towards garnet, flecked with threads of pinkish-white fat finely marbled throughout the muscle tissue. This generous marbling, characteristic of meat breeds reared free-range on a diet rich in acorns, gives the ham its exceptional unctuousness and aromatic richness.
The aroma is complex and captivating: notes of hazelnut, undergrowth, and gently sweet melted fat, with a hint of noble fermentation typical of long ageing. On the palate, the texture is melt-in-the-mouth, unravelling into fine fibres under the tongue. The flavour is deep and lingering — salted with restraint, sweetened by the marbled fat, rich in umami from amino acids released during curing, with nuances of mushroom and oak that evoke the woodlands where the pigs grazed.
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Jambon noir de Bigorre comes from pure Gascon pigs, reared on pasture across grassy and wooded runs from the age of six months, with a maximum density of twenty pigs per hectare. The feed provided by the farmer is supplemented by whatever the pigs find on the pasture — grass, acorns, and chestnuts. Slaughter takes place between twelve and twenty-four months, for a minimum carcass weight of 100 kg.
The hams are salted no later than three days after slaughter, using Salies-de-Béarn salt, at a rate of one day of salting per kilo of fresh ham. This is followed by cold resting for at least two months, before drying and curing begin: the ham is hung in natural drying rooms whose windows open to the outside, where the winds of the Pyrenees circulate freely. The total production time, from salting to the end of curing, is at least twenty months — including twelve months spent in the drying room — during which the ham concentrates its aromas and develops its characteristic melt-in-the-mouth texture.
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Jambon noir de Bigorre is enjoyed hand-sliced into thin shavings, at room temperature (16–18°C) so that the fat softens and releases its aromas. It is sufficient unto itself, paired at most with lightly toasted pain de campagne or a few slices of Basque bread. A drizzle of light extra-virgin olive oil can highlight its richness without masking it.
Wine pairings are made with the great Pyrenean reds: a vieilles vignes Madiran, a structured Irouléguy, or, for white-wine lovers, a mineral Jurançon sec whose crisp acidity cuts through the fat of the ham magnificently. Best avoided: wines that are too oaky or too high in alcohol, which would overpower the delicate aromas of long curing.
Jambon noir de Bigorre PDO refers exclusively to cured dry ham from the Gascon black pig. The pig itself benefits from a distinct PDO, ‘Porc Noir de Bigorre PDO’, which shares the same breed, the same terroir, and the same supply chain.
Since: 2017
Area covered: Hautes-Pyrénées, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Gers, Haute-Garonne
Key requirements: Pure Gascon pig breed, free-range rearing from 6 months, slaughter between 12 and 24 months, minimum 20 months' curing, Salies-de-Béarn salt
Syndicate/ODG
Artisan manufacturer
Artisan charcuterie workshop and shop (Porc Noir de Bigorre PDO (AOP))
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The company describes itself as a French artisan curing house operating under the brand Maison Phalip, based in Louey, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. It claims a commitment to "making fine, wholesome products in a preserved environment". Its range is built around jambon de Bayonne — in free-range and organic versions — and Noir de Bigorre.
It states that it is located at the heart of the Jambon de Bayonne PGI (IGP) geographical area, between the Atlantic Ocean, the Pyrenees range, and the Adour river, boasting three generations of experience in ham preparation. It states that it works with local farmers in Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Hautes-Pyrénées, and Landes, selecting fresh hams that comply with the PGI specifications, then salting them with Salies-de-Béarn rock salt before drying and maturing them for a minimum of one year — up to eighteen months for the heaviest cuts — with each ham branded with the "Bayonne" seal and its salaisonnier number.
For the Noir de Bigorre, it claims a gentle salting tailored to the meat of this breed prior to maturation, each ham being stamped with the "NB" seal and its affineur number.
It highlights a commitment to animal welfare, local supply chains, and preservative-free products, alongside environmental protection initiatives, sports sponsorships, and charitable and artistic patronage.
| Address | Route de Lourdes, 65290 Louey, France |
| 05 62 45 60 33 | |
| salaisonsdeladour.com | |
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Part of the production is certified organic, since 2011. |
