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PDO — Midi-Pyrénées
A thousand-year-old Gascon breed rescued from extinction, the porc noir de Bigorre roams the oak and chestnut forests of the Pyrenean foothills — its marbled meat, the fruit of up to two years spent in the open air, is the raw material for exceptional charcuterie.
Pork from Midi-Pyrénées, PDO (AOP) since 2017.
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The bond between the black pig and Bigorre became firmly established from the 11th century onwards, when Cluniac Benedictine monks founded numerous abbeys in the region and developed the rearing of this animal, which was particularly well suited to making the most of Bigorre's natural and agricultural environment. Although the rearing of Gascon breed pigs spread far beyond the borders of Bigorre over the centuries, it refocused there around an elite core from the 17th century, and especially at the beginning of the 20th century — a period when the breed very nearly died out.
Rescue efforts were organised in the 1980s based on this surviving Bigorre nucleus: in 1981, only 34 sows and 2 breeding boars remained. Recognisable by its entirely black coat, horizontally carried ears, and slender legs, this hardy, slow-growing pig, a natural walker, is perfectly suited to life on the range, including on steep terrain.
Rebuilding the herd required several decades of patient work by breeders. PDO status was obtained in 2017, simultaneously for the breed (porc noir de Bigorre) and for its main processed product (jambon noir de Bigorre, recognised under the same European regulation of 5 September 2017) — with all stages of production, from birth to slaughter, required to take place within the demarcated territory.
The meat of the porc noir de Bigorre is distinguished by its deep red colour, due to high levels of myoglobin and easily assimilated iron — distinctly more intense than that of conventional pork. It is well marbled: the proportion of intramuscular fat averages 4%, compared to 1.5% for standard pork, with clearly visible white external fat.
Cooked pink, as tradition dictates — ‘to appreciate its qualities, this meat must not be overcooked’ —, it offers a fine-grained, melt-in-the-mouth and juicy texture, savoury and tender, with an intense flavour.
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The rearing of the porc noir de Bigorre is regulated in meticulous detail by the PDO specifications. Pregnant sows are reared outdoors on pasture, with a maximum stocking density of 12 sows per hectare; piglets destined for production then move onto wooded range land by six months at the latest, with a maximum density of 20 pigs per hectare of grass. The animals are slaughtered between 12 and 24 months — compared to 5 to 6 months for an industrial pig —, with a minimum carcass weight of 100 kg required, and a fat thickness of at least 30 mm.
From 3.5 months, supplementary feeding must consist of at least 70% cereals sourced from the geographical area — wheat, oats, barley, rye, and triticale —, with maize, soya, and growth promoters explicitly prohibited, as is any hormonal treatment. On their range, the pigs supplement this diet by grazing and, depending on the season, with the acorns, chestnuts, apples, and roots they find in the undergrowth.
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Fresh porc noir de Bigorre meat is ideally slow-cooked: oven-roasted at low temperatures, chops braised with root vegetables, or collar confit in its own fat. Common to all these preparations is an essential rule reiterated by the INAO itself: never cook it right through, so as to keep it pink. Furthermore, the richness of the marbling makes adding cooking fat unnecessary — the meat stands on its own. Herbs from the Pyrenean garrigue (thyme, rosemary, sage) naturally complement its rustic, generous flavour.
The sector's main processed product is jambon noir de Bigorre, whose PDO specifications require a total production time (salting, resting, drying, maturing) of at least 20 months. The sector also processes the meat into other charcuterie, available from stockists listed by the Consortium du Noir de Bigorre. Wine pairings call for the powerful, tannic reds of Madiran, Cahors, or Irouléguy, which hold their own against the richness of this exceptional meat.
Porc noir de Bigorre PDO designates the pure Gascon pig breed, reared exclusively within its area of origin. Its fresh meat holds PDO status on an equal footing with its main processed product, jambon noir de Bigorre — two distinct appellations, granted simultaneously in 2017, which share the same breed and the same terroir, but each comply with their own specifications.
Since: 2017
Area covered: Hautes-Pyrénées, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Gers, Haute-Garonne
Key requirements: Pure Gascon black pig breed, slaughter between 12 and 24 months, diet of ≥ 70% local cereals (maize and growth promoters prohibited) + seasonal acorn foraging
Syndicate/ODG
Artisan charcuterie workshop and shop (Porc Noir de Bigorre PDO (AOP))
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