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Lorraine
Deep in Lorraine, every baker jealously guards their recipe for puff pastry pâté: golden pastry concealing a filling of pork and veal marinated in vin gris, a direct legacy from Taillevent's medieval kitchens.
Charcuterie speciality from Lorraine.
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Pâté lorrain is one of the oldest culinary specialities of Lorraine. Its first documented mention dates back to 1392, in the Viandier by Taillevent, master cook to the kings of France, under the name "pastés de lorais" — one of the earliest known mentions of this medieval recipe. For centuries, every village and family in the region had its local puff pastry pâté specialist, passing the recipe down from generation to generation.
The Baccarat area, in Meurthe-et-Moselle, lays claim to the ancestral invention of pâté lorrain, where it was reportedly baked for the first time. The Confrérie de l'authentique pâté lorrain de Baccarat, founded in 2019 on the initiative of mayor Christian Gex and several enthusiasts, works to promote and preserve the traditional recipe.
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Baccarat, a small town in Meurthe-et-Moselle famous for its crystal glassworks, stands at the geographical and symbolic heart of pâté lorrain. The traditional recipe relies on meat from Lorraine marinated in white wine or vin gris de Toul — a pale wine produced some sixty kilometres from Baccarat — with shallots and parsley. The puff pastry, browned in the baker's oven, expresses an artisanal savoir-faire that unites charcuterie and baking-pâtisserie.
For over fifty years, on the second weekend of September, Baccarat has hosted an annual festival dedicated to pâté lorrain, bringing together artisans, bakers, and food lovers around a competition for the best pâté — the 50th edition, in September 2019, saw the creation of the Confrérie de l'authentique pâté lorrain de Baccarat. This contest is an opportunity for the region's bakers to defend their family recipe before professional judging panels. Boulangerie Payeur, which won 1st prize for the best pâté lorrain in 2007, 2011, and 2014, is today one of the town's most recognised benchmarks.
Appearance
Golden rectangular or oval puff pastry, around twenty centimetres long, with a glossy surface (egg wash). When sliced, the meat filling is visible in alternating beige and grey layers.
Aroma
Butter from the puff pastry, aromas of roasted meat, notes of white wine and shallot.
Taste
Melting and savoury, offering a contrast between crisp pastry and a juicy marinated filling. A light acidity from vin gris de Toul marks the finish.
Texture
Crisp, golden puff pastry; tender, compact filling.
The traditional recipe combines pork collar (fatty meat) and veal cushion (white meat), cut into pieces with a knife and marinated for several hours in white wine or vin gris de Toul with shallots and parsley. Pâté lorrain comes in individual or family sizes: in Baccarat, Boulangerie Payeur offers individual portions (140 g) up to sizes for six people (900 g).
The filling is generally prepared in advance: pieces of pork and veal cut with a knife (never minced) are set to marinate in wine, sliced shallots, and chopped parsley. The marinated filling is then wrapped in puff pastry, shaped into an elongated parcel, glazed with egg wash, and pierced to allow steam to escape, before being baked in a hot oven until it attains its characteristic golden-brown colour.
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Pâté lorrain is enjoyed hot, warm, or at room temperature, as a starter or a light main course accompanied by a green salad. Traditionally, it is served with vin gris de Toul, a pale and light locally produced wine, or with a dry regional white wine. Warm or cold, sliced, it is also well suited to picnics and eating on the go, typical of bakery sales.
Pâté lorrain does not benefit from any geographical protection. The Confrérie de l'authentique pâté lorrain de Baccarat, founded in 2019, works to codify and promote the traditional recipe.
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