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PGI — Auvergne
In the cool cellars of the Massif Central, hanging from iron hooks, saucisson sec d'Auvergne dries slowly for weeks — charcuterie born of patience, a symbol of the Auvergne table.
Charcuterie speciality from Auvergne, PGI (IGP) since 2016.
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Saucisson sec d'Auvergne traces its origins to the farms of the Massif Central, where preserving pork through salting and drying was an ancient peasant practice that remained widespread until the mid-20th century. In the absence of cold rooms, only the winter conditions of the mid-altitude mountains allowed salting and drying to be properly controlled: production was therefore concentrated during the season of the « tuade », the farm slaughter of the pig. These rural traditions were chronicled by regionalist writers: in 1935, Suzanne Robaglia recounted in her cookbook Margaridou how one would « fait mangougne », whilst Ulysse Rouchon detailed slaughtering and curing techniques in La vie paysanne dans la Haute-Loire (1933-1938).
In the 19th century, the arrival of the railway made it possible to dispatch cured meats towards Paris and the south-east of France, whilst the mass emigration of Auvergnats to the capital from 1830 spread the reputation of the saucisson through the bars and brasseries they ran there. Several curing companies that are today members of the Consortium des Salaisons d'Auvergne date back to this era, such as Salaisons Limoujoux in Clermont-Ferrand, operating since 1845. Today, Saucisson sec d'Auvergne is regularly awarded prizes at major French competitions, notably the Concours Général Agricole in Paris and the Concours international du meilleur saucisson Saucicréor in Nouan-le-Fuzelier.
The initiative began in 1995, spearheaded by the Association de développement des industries de transformation de la viande en Auvergne — which had already held the Label Rouge since 1977. The application was close to completion in 1998, but the 1999 law, which entrusted the examination of PGI applications to the INAO, required deeper integration of the upstream supply chain: it was to address this that the Consortium des Salaisons d'Auvergne (CSA) was founded in 2002, bringing together livestock farmers, slaughterer-cutters and cured-meat producers. A consensus between production and processing was reached in 2004, and the INAO approved the application on 5 December 2006. The product specification was officially approved at national level by decree on 3 March 2009, before its submission to the European Commission by decree on 29 October 2015 and its definitive registration as a PGI by European regulation on 7 September 2016, published in the Official Journal of the European Union on 20 September 2016. Over twenty years of procedures, for a product that, since the 19th century, had already stood as one of the great charcuteries of the Massif Central.
Appearance
Natural casing for whole pieces (the largest pieces intended for slicing may be stuffed into collagen casing, which is removed before slicing); slice red to dark red in colour, with strong cohesion, containing little fat but evenly distributed
Aroma
Garlicky — garlic is systematically incorporated into the mixture, at a rate of 1 to 3 g/kg of pulp
Taste
Garlicky, in keeping with the systematic garlic flavouring of the meat mixture
Texture
Supple to dry, depending on the calibre of the piece and the degree of curing
« Chaudin » format — Diameter 4 to 8 cm, length 10 to 20 cm, weight 200 to 400 g, minimum production time of 21 days. The most common format.
« Suivant » format — Diameter 5 to 10 cm, length 15 to 35 cm, weight 400 to 800 g, minimum production time of 28 days.
Large pieces (« rosette », « fuseau ») — Diameter 6 to 12 cm, length 20 to 50 cm, weight exceeding 800 g, minimum production time of 42 days.
Saucisse sèche d'Auvergne — Finer « menu » casing (diameter 2.5 to 5 cm), weight 200 to 350 g for short pieces, up to 4 kg for the « saucisse perche » coiled around a pole for drying, minimum production time of 18 days. Same PGI as the saucisson, under a distinct denomination.
What distinguishes PGI Saucisson sec d'Auvergne — An origin restricted to the historical area (Auvergne, minus the north of Allier, plus the canton of Ussel in Corrèze), a coarse grind, a more pronounced garlic flavouring than the average of the roughly 2,000 types of saucisson recorded in France, and a darker colour, linked to the traditional use of older or heavier animals.
Lean meat (predominantly from the shoulder) and firm fat (bardière), in a proportion of around 80% lean meat to 20% fat.
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Best enjoyed thinly sliced (2-3 mm), either on its own as an aperitif, or accompanied by toasted country bread and fresh butter. The aromatic flavours reveal themselves more fully at room temperature (18-20°C) than when chilled. Wine pairings: light red Côtes d'Auvergne, Gamay du Forez, or dry white (local Marsanne). Spirit pairing: diluted pastis or kir. In cooking: finely grated over an Auvergne salad (lentilles vertes du Puy, fresh chèvre), or diced in an old-fashioned split pea soup.
Since: 2016
Area covered: Cantal (15), Puy-de-Dôme (63), Haute-Loire (43), Allier (03, southern half) — with communes of the canton of Ussel in Corrèze (19) and one commune in Lot (46)
Key requirements: Natural casing (except large pieces for slicing, in collagen casing), garlic systematically added to the meat mixture (1 to 3 g/kg), minimum production time of 18 to 42 days depending on calibre, positive list of authorised ingredients and additives (salt, sugars, garlic, ferments, nitrate/nitrite/ascorbate within regulated limits)
Cooperative / PGI management body
Craft manufacturer
Artisanal industry
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Teil SA - Cantal Salaisons is a cutting and curing workshop located in Aurillac, in Cantal, owned by the agricultural cooperative Groupe Altitude. It processes pigs born, reared and slaughtered on family farms in the Massif Central into hams and dry saucissons claimed to be faithful to the tradition of the Cantal mountains.
The firm notably produces jambon d'Auvergne PGI (IGP) dried for 8 to 12 months and saucisson sec d'Auvergne PGI, under the group's Valtitude brand. It highlights animals from farms attentive to animal welfare and the environment.
Paris
Lyon
| Address | 101 Av. de Conthe, 15000 Aurillac, France |
| +33 4 71 63 43 30 | |
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Part of the production is certified organic, since 2020. |
