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AOC — PDO — Île-de-France
"The king of cheeses" — the title bestowed on it by Talleyrand in 1815 before the ambassadors of thirty nations at the Congress of Vienna still holds true, two centuries on, for anyone fortunate enough to bite into a Brie de Meaux at peak ripeness.
Bloomy-rind cheese from Île-de-France, PDO (AOP) since 1992.
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Tradition attributes the "discovery" of Brie de Meaux to Charlemagne himself: while stopping at the abbey of Rueil-en-Brie in 774, the Emperor of the Franks reportedly savoured a portion of this cheese and exclaimed that he had just discovered one of the most delicious delicacies in existence. The legend has undoubtedly been embellished down the centuries — yet it holds a fundamental truth: Brie remained a cheese of the court for nearly a millennium, appreciated in turn by Robert II le Pieux, who traded in it himself, by Blanche de Navarre, who used it to flatter Philippe Auguste, and later by Rabelais, Henri IV and Louis XIV.
The terroir that gave birth to it, the Brie, is a plateau stretching between the valleys of the Marne, the Orge, the Seine, and the côte d'Île-de-France. Milk production, cheesemaking and the maturation of Brie de Meaux take place today across Seine-et-Marne and parts of the departments of Aube, Loiret, Marne, Haute-Marne and Meuse — an area shaped by the rivers that irrigate it and by lush pastures well suited to dairy farming.
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The scene belongs as much to the history of gastronomy as to that of diplomacy. Following Napoleon's defeat, the Congress of Vienna brought together in 1815 Talleyrand, Metternich and the ambassadors of thirty nations dividing up Europe. A great diplomat and refined gourmet, Talleyrand had a competition organised to name the continent's finest cheese: unanimously, Brie was crowned "king of cheeses". The winning cheese is said to have come from the farm of M. Courtier in Villeroy, built in the 17th century by the monks of the abbey of Chézy-en-Orxois. The phrase has stood the test of time.
Official recognition arrived on 18 August 1980, with the AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) — Brie de Melun, its smaller and more distinctive cousin, received it on the very same day. European PDO followed in 1992. The product specification mandates raw cow's milk, hand-moulding with a "pelle à Brie", and a minimum maturation of four weeks within the defined geographical area. These requirements distinguish authentic Brie de Meaux PDO from the countless industrial "bries" that have colonised supermarket shelves worldwide.
Appearance
A large, flat disc 36 to 37 cm in diameter, between 2.5 and 3 kg at four weeks of maturation. Thin, white rind, flecked with red striations or patches at full maturity; homogeneous paste of an even cream hue.
Aroma
Aromas of cream and butter, which develop with maturation.
Taste
Notes of hazelnut and, at its core, sometimes forest floor; a fruitier and milder taste than that of its cousin Brie de Melun.
Texture
Supple to slightly runny paste, lighter in colour and softer than that of Brie de Melun.
coagulation of the milk by renneting; the curd may be cut using a single blade, without pumping off the whey.
spontaneous draining, without pressing, then salting exclusively with dry salt.
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Brie de Meaux is served at room temperature, taken out of the refrigerator an hour before tasting. It is accompanied by a dense-crumbed pain de campagne or a baguette tradition. Its natural wine pairings are Champagnes (whose effervescence cuts through the richness) and light red Burgundies — Pinot Noir, Pommard, Volnay. Cheeses matured right to the core also pair delightfully with a Sauternes or a Coteaux du Layon in a sweet-and-savoury match.
Since: 1980
Area covered: Seine-et-Marne (77) · Aube (10) · Loiret (45) · Marne (51) · Haute-Marne (52) · Meuse (55)
Key requirements: Raw cow's milk · manual moulding with a pelle à Brie · maturation ≥ 4 weeks · diameter 36–37 cm · weight 2.5–3 kg at 4 weeks
Since: 1992
Area covered: Seine-et-Marne (77) · Aube (10) · Loiret (45) · Marne (51) · Haute-Marne (52) · Meuse (55)
Key requirements: European registration of the appellation d'origine contrôlée, confirming the requirements of the national specifications.
SCEA
Brotherhood
Large artisan cheese house
Artisan
Artisanal cheese dairy (family business)
Large artisan cheese house
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