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PGI — Burgundy
Named after the famous gastronome, this creamy cheese with a white bloomy rind is an ode to Burgundian dairy generosity.
Bloomy-rind cheese from Burgundy, PGI (IGP) since 2017.
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The craftsmanship behind Brillat-Savarin — a lactic curd enriched with milk cream — has its roots in the farmhouse traditions of its production area dating back to the Ancien Régime; enriching the milk with fat subsequently developed there from the 19th century onwards. It was the Parisian cheesemonger and affineur Henri Androuët who, in the early 1930s, developed this exceptional cheese alongside a talented cheesemaker and gave it its current name, in tribute to the magistrate and gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), author of the treatise « La Physiologie du Goût ». From the 1960s onwards, local dairies began marketing their own cheeses under this name; a long collective effort to structure the industry, begun in the early 2000s, finally culminated in PGI recognition on 19 January 2017.
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The production area extends from south-eastern Bourgogne to central Seine-et-Marne, encompassing the Burgundian departments of Côte-d'Or and Yonne, northern Saône-et-Loire and, for a single canton, Aube — comprising 879 communes across five departments. Straddling Brie and Bourgogne, this region has maintained continuous production of fat-enriched lactic-curd cheeses ripened with a bloomy rind for more than fifty years.
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Brillat-Savarin quickly won over the region's gastronomic tables: in Saulieu (Côte-d'Or), Maison Bernard Loiseau, and in Chagny (Saône-et-Loire), the restaurant Lameloise, consistently feature it on their menus and praise its creaminess to their guests. A cheese dairy in Côte-d'Or was also awarded two medals for its matured Brillat-Savarin at the 1976 Concours Général Agricole, an event that caused quite a stir in the local press at the time.
Appearance
Regular cylinder with straight or slightly concave sides and flat faces, in small format (100 to 250 g, 60-100 mm in diameter) or large format (minimum 500 g, 110-140 mm in diameter). White to ivory rind, downy, formed by Penicillium candidum and/or Geotrichum; ivory-white, fine and homogeneous paste.
Aroma
Delicate aromas of fresh mushroom (penicillium character), subtle notes of cream and butter.
Taste
Very mild and creamy flavour, lightly milky, with the richness of butter and cream, and no bitterness. Very approachable for a matured cheese.
Texture
Very creamy paste, almost runny at the centre when optimally matured, which flows slightly at room temperature.
Brillat-Savarin PGI officially comes in two formats defined by the product specification: a small format (100 to 250 g) and a large format (500 g minimum and above). The enrichment with milk cream that earns it its reputation as a « triple-crème » cheese is an integral part of the PGI recipe itself — it is not a distinct variation.
inoculation with lactic ferments followed by long coagulation at moderate temperature, for at least 12 hours.
curd poured gently into moulds, slow and natural draining.
moderate salting followed by drying for at least 2 days at 14 °C maximum, until a total dry matter content ≥ 40 %.
first placed on the market at the earliest 3 days after the start of manufacture.
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Service : Can be enjoyed cold as well as warm. Brought to room temperature, it fully reveals its aromas of cream and undergrowth.
Drinks : Light red wine or not too dry white wine from Bourgogne, Crémant de Bourgogne.
Since: 2017
Area covered: Aube, Côte-d'Or, Saône-et-Loire, Seine-et-Marne, Yonne (879 communes)
Key requirements: Milk enriched with cream; lactic curd; fat content ≥ 72% in dry matter; ripening ≥ 5 days (small format) / 8 days (large format)
Family-run
Major house
Artisanal cheese dairy — founded in 1946
Family-owned cheese group
Artisanal cheese dairy (family business)
Large artisan cheese house
Large artisanal cheese house
Artisanal manufacturer
Large artisanal cheese house
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