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PGI — Burgundy

Brillat-Savarin

Named after the famous gastronome, this creamy cheese with a white bloomy rind is an ode to Burgundian dairy generosity.

Bloomy-rind cheese from Burgundy, PGI (IGP) since 2017.

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At a glance

History & Origins

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Origins and birth of the product

The craftsmanship behind Brillat-Savarin — a lactic curd enriched with milk cream — has its roots in the farmhouse traditions of its production area dating back to the Ancien Régime; enriching the milk with fat subsequently developed there from the 19th century onwards. It was the Parisian cheesemonger and affineur Henri Androuët who, in the early 1930s, developed this exceptional cheese alongside a talented cheesemaker and gave it its current name, in tribute to the magistrate and gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), author of the treatise « La Physiologie du Goût ». From the 1960s onwards, local dairies began marketing their own cheeses under this name; a long collective effort to structure the industry, begun in the early 2000s, finally culminated in PGI recognition on 19 January 2017.

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Terroir and geographical roots

The production area extends from south-eastern Bourgogne to central Seine-et-Marne, encompassing the Burgundian departments of Côte-d'Or and Yonne, northern Saône-et-Loire and, for a single canton, Aube — comprising 879 communes across five departments. Straddling Brie and Bourgogne, this region has maintained continuous production of fat-enriched lactic-curd cheeses ripened with a bloomy rind for more than fifty years.

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Heritage and local culture

Brillat-Savarin quickly won over the region's gastronomic tables: in Saulieu (Côte-d'Or), Maison Bernard Loiseau, and in Chagny (Saône-et-Loire), the restaurant Lameloise, consistently feature it on their menus and praise its creaminess to their guests. A cheese dairy in Côte-d'Or was also awarded two medals for its matured Brillat-Savarin at the 1976 Concours Général Agricole, an event that caused quite a stir in the local press at the time.

Product characteristics

Sensory profile

Appearance

Regular cylinder with straight or slightly concave sides and flat faces, in small format (100 to 250 g, 60-100 mm in diameter) or large format (minimum 500 g, 110-140 mm in diameter). White to ivory rind, downy, formed by Penicillium candidum and/or Geotrichum; ivory-white, fine and homogeneous paste.

Aroma

Delicate aromas of fresh mushroom (penicillium character), subtle notes of cream and butter.

Taste

Very mild and creamy flavour, lightly milky, with the richness of butter and cream, and no bitterness. Very approachable for a matured cheese.

Texture

Very creamy paste, almost runny at the centre when optimally matured, which flows slightly at room temperature.

Varieties

Brillat-Savarin PGI officially comes in two formats defined by the product specification: a small format (100 to 250 g) and a large format (500 g minimum and above). The enrichment with milk cream that earns it its reputation as a « triple-crème » cheese is an integral part of the PGI recipe itself — it is not a distinct variation.

How it is made

01

Milk

Raw or pasteurised whole cow's milk, enriched with cow's milk cream obtained by skimming, collected within a max… Read more
Raw or pasteurised whole cow's milk, enriched with cow's milk cream obtained by skimming, collected within a maximum of 2 days after milking.
02

Maturation and lactic curdling

inoculation with lactic ferments followed by long coagulation at moderate temperature, for at least 12 hours.

03

Moulding and draining

curd poured gently into moulds, slow and natural draining.

04

Unmoulding, salting and drying

moderate salting followed by drying for at least 2 days at 14 °C maximum, until a total dry matter content ≥ 40 %.

05

Maturation

(for « matured » cheeses) : at least 5 days for small formats, 8 days for large formats, at a temperature of 5 to 14 °C;… Read more
(for « matured » cheeses) : at least 5 days for small formats, 8 days for large formats, at a temperature of 5 to 14 °C; development of surface flora (Penicillium candidum and/or Geotrichum).
06

Marketing

first placed on the market at the earliest 3 days after the start of manufacture.

Tasting & pairings

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Service : Can be enjoyed cold as well as warm. Brought to room temperature, it fully reveals its aromas of cream and undergrowth.

Uses :

  • Enjoyed on its own, on a cheese board.: Enjoyed on its own, on a cheese board.
  • With a few grapes, a drizzle of honey or a dried apricot.: With a few grapes, a drizzle of honey or a dried apricot.
  • With honey or jam.: With honey or jam.
  • In salads (small pieces on rocket).: In salads (small pieces on rocket).
  • Convivial aperitif.: Convivial aperitif.

Drinks : Light red wine or not too dry white wine from Bourgogne, Crémant de Bourgogne.

Labels & certifications

PGI (IGP)

Since: 2017

Area covered: Aube, Côte-d'Or, Saône-et-Loire, Seine-et-Marne, Yonne (879 communes)

Key requirements: Milk enriched with cream; lactic curd; fat content ≥ 72% in dry matter; ripening ≥ 5 days (small format) / 8 days (large format)

The people of the terroir

Producer Vieux-Ferrette

Fromagerie Antony

Family-run

Part of the production is certified organic Producer · Organic range Saint-Haon-le-Châtel

Mons Fromager Affineur

Major house

Producer Brochon

Fromagerie Gaugry

Artisanal cheese dairy — founded in 1946

Producer Saligny

Fromagerie Lincet

Family-owned cheese group

Producer Saint-Siméon

Société Fromagère de la Brie

Artisanal cheese dairy (family business)

Producer Tournan-en-Brie

Fromagerie Rouzaire

Large artisan cheese house

Producer Gilly-lès-Cîteaux

Fromagerie Delin

Large artisanal cheese house

Producer Torcy

Laiterie Fromagerie Girard Maurice

Artisanal manufacturer

Producer Beaune

Fromagerie Hess

Large artisanal cheese house

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Producer Vieux-Ferrette

Fromagerie Antony

Family-run

Fromagerie Antony presents itself as a family-run, artisanal maturing house based in Vieux-Ferrette, in the Alsatian Sundgau. From six cellars tucked behind a half-timbered building, it selects and matures cheeses sourced from smallholder artisan producers. Its range spans several major cheese families — washed rinds, bloomy rinds, blue-veined cheeses, hard and semi-hard cheeses, as well as goat's and ewe's milk cheeses.

The house also offers an introduction to its craft entitled ‘La Cérémonie des fromages’, presented as a journey to discover exceptional cheeses and the work of its partner producers. It welcomes customers to its shop in Vieux-Ferrette six days a week, and also travels to markets across southern Alsace with a mobile shop van.

Address5 Rue de la Montagne, 68480 Vieux-Ferrette, France
Phone03 89 40 42 22
Emailcontact@fromagerieantony.fr
Websitefromagerieantony.fr
Part of the production is certified organic Producer Saint-Haon-le-Châtel

Mons Fromager Affineur

Major house

Maison Mons presents itself as a cheesemonger and affineur since the 1960s: it sources, matures and markets a wide range of artisanal cheeses. It claims three generations of practising traditional maturing methods. It holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant label.

The house relies on several of its own facilities — including Fromagerie des Hautes Chaumes, Laiterie de la Côte Roannaise and Tunnel de la Collonge, its maturing cellars — and selects cheeses from numerous regions of France, as well as Italy and Switzerland. It distributes through a network of 14 shops as well as by delivery in mainland France.

Other products

Address91 All. de L’Auvergnat, 42370 Saint-Haon-le-Châtel, France
Phone+33 4 77 64 40 79
Websitemons-fromages.com
FacebookFacebook page
Instagram@mons_fromager_affineur
Euro-leaf, the EU organic farming logo Part of the production is certified organic, since 2018.
Producer Brochon

Fromagerie Gaugry

Artisanal cheese dairy — founded in 1946

Fromagerie Gaugry has been making soft, washed-rind cow's milk cheeses since 1946, in Brochon, Bourgogne, between Dijon and Gevrey-Chambertin. It matures and sells Époisses PDO (AOP), Soumaintrain PGI (IGP), Chaource PDO and matured Brillat-Savarin PGI, as well as cheeses without an official label such as Petit Gaugry, Ami du Chambertin, Palet de Bourgogne, Brochonnais and Plaisir au Chablis. It has a shop on site.

Address74 Rte nationale, 21220 Brochon, France
Phone03 80 34 32 57
Websitegaugryfromager.fr
FacebookFacebook page
Instagram@fromageriegaugry
VisitsBy appointment
Producer Saligny

Fromagerie Lincet

Family-owned cheese group

Fromagerie Lincet presents itself as a family cheese house, passed down since 1895 and now in its sixth generation. Its main site is in Saligny, in the Yonne, where it states it makes Chaource PDO (AOP), triple-cream cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin PGI (IGP), and Délice de Bourgogne. The house states that it collects around 32 million litres of milk a year from some 49 dairy farms, within an average radius of 40 km around its cheese dairies, across an area covering Yonne, Aube, Marne, Seine-et-Marne and Côte-d'Or.

The company produces across three sites, organised by expertise: besides Saligny, Fromagerie de Vaudes in Aube is dedicated exclusively to Chaource PDO, and Fromagerie Gaugry in Brochon, in Côte-d'Or, to washed-rind cheeses — Époisses PDO, Soumaintrain PGI, Rond des Vignes. These are complemented by a logistics hub in Torvilliers, Société Allard in Saligny, which specialises in maturing farmhouse goat's cheeses, and a Parisian restaurant.

These cheeses are sold under three brands that the house presents as complementary: LINCET for official quality marks from Bourgogne and Champagne, GAUGRY for washed rinds from Côte-d'Or, and LAITERIE DE LA CÔTE for a premium range intended for cheesemongers and the traditional trade.

Other products

Address15 Rue de la Quennevelle, 89100 Saligny, France
Phone+33 3 86 97 83 97
Websitefromagerie-lincet.net
FacebookFacebook page
Instagram@fromagerielincet
VisitsBy appointment
Producer Saint-Siméon

Société Fromagère de la Brie

Artisanal cheese dairy (family business)

Société Fromagère de la Brie is a cheese dairy located in Saint-Siméon, in Seine-et-Marne. It produces raw-milk cheeses — Brie de Meaux PDO (AOP), Brie de Melun PDO, Coulommiers, Brie de Montereau, Brie de Nangis, as well as original creations such as Chevru, Jean de Brie, Saint-Siméon, Bayard Gourmand, and Vignelait — and pasteurised cheeses, including L'Explorateur and triple crèmes. It offers direct sales on site, at the cheese dairy.

Address19 Av. du Grand Morin, 77169 Saint-Siméon, France
Phone+33 1 64 20 40 09
Websitelesfromagesdelabrie.fr
Producer Tournan-en-Brie

Fromagerie Rouzaire

Large artisan cheese house

Founded in 1938 by Louis Rouzaire, a cheese merchant and affineur who collected cheeses at the Meaux fair to resell them in Paris, the house has developed over three generations: his son Robert invested in 1960 in underground maturing cellars in Tournan-en-Brie, then the third generation built a cheese dairy in Fontenay-Trésigny in 1986.

There, the company matures Brie de Meaux PDO (AOP) and Brie de Melun PDO in the Briard tradition, alongside three other regional cheeses — Brie de Nangis, Coulommiers de brie and Brillat-Savarin. The moulding of Brie de Meaux is done with a shovel, in two stages, in stainless-steel moulds placed on natural rush mats; that of Brie de Melun on wooden mats. Claudine Rouzaire, third-generation managing director, works in short supply chains with around twenty regional dairy farmers located within a radius of less than fifty kilometres.

Its cheeses are marketed through regional short supply chains — notably to retailers such as Grand Frais — as well as through wholesalers and cheesemongers, with a significant share of production destined for export, particularly to the United Kingdom and Germany.

The company describes itself as being organised into two units: the Pré-Forêt dairy and cheese plant in Fontenay-Trésigny for production, and the Tournan-en-Brie cellars for maturation. According to its manager Éric Bourges, milk collection has risen from one million litres of milk in 1986 to over twelve million today, sourced from twenty-two Seine-et-Marne dairy farmers. One thousand three hundred tonnes of cheese are produced there each year, 70% of which is made from raw milk and 30% from pasteurised milk to meet the requirements of foreign markets, notably the United States. Over time, the range has diversified to include triple-crème cheeses and 'Fins Briards'.

Other products

Address10 Rue de la Madeleine, 77220 Tournan-en-Brie, France
Phone+33 1 64 07 00 92
Emailfromagerie.rouzaire@rouzaire.fr
Websitefromagerierouzaire.com
VisitsYes — shop
Producer Gilly-lès-Cîteaux

Fromagerie Delin

Large artisanal cheese house

Based in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, in the heart of the Côte de Nuits, Fromagerie Delin has been making cheeses typical of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region for 50 years. Today, it brings together the cheese dairies of Chevillon (Haute-Marne) and Montbéliard (Doubs), supported by a network of around twenty partner milk producers stretching from Haute-Marne to Saône-et-Loire by way of Doubs and Côte-d'Or. Together, they offer a complete range of regional cheeses — Brillat-Savarin PGI (IGP), Morbier, Tome — as well as fresh cheeses, fromage blanc and faisselle.

The house runs an on-site shop, 'Les Halles de Gilly', dedicated to local produce: cheeses, dairy products, Côte-d'Or specialities, meat and charcuterie, along with a selection of local wines and beers.

AddressZAC de la Petite Champagne, 1 Rue de Cîteaux, 21640 Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, France
Phone03 80 62 87 20
Emailcontact@fromagerie-delin.com
Websitefromagerie-delin.com
VisitsYes
Producer Torcy

Laiterie Fromagerie Girard Maurice

Artisanal manufacturer

Based in Torcy, in the municipality's business park, Laiterie Fromagerie Girard Maurice has been making fresh cheeses and Brillat-Savarin since its creation in 1975. The company, which employs around thirty staff, is listed under the activity 'Cheese manufacture' in the economic directory of its intermunicipal authority, the Communauté Urbaine Creusot Montceau.

Girard Maurice is among the makers recognised by the Groupement de Promotion du Brillat-Savarin, the defence and management organisation for the PGI (IGP), alongside a handful of other houses spread across Bourgogne, Aube and Seine-et-Marne. Its production notably finds outlets through supermarkets.

Phone+33 3 85 73 92 22
Websitefromagerie-girard.com
Producer Beaune

Fromagerie Hess

Large artisanal cheese house

In Beaune, at the heart of the Côte-d'Or, Fromagerie Hess has been making and maturing Burgundian cheeses since Alain Hess, a shopkeeper since 1978, first started out there. It was in this workshop that in 1995 he created Délice de Pommard, a fresh cheese coated with mustard bran, since produced in versions with garlic and fine herbs, blackcurrant buds, Italian black truffle, or Dijon pain d'épices — which has become the house's best-known creation — as well as Royal truffé, two-time gold medallist at the Mondial du Fromage in Tours, in 2013 and 2015.

The house is among the makers recognised by the Groupement de Promotion du Brillat-Savarin, the defence and management organisation for the PGI (IGP), alongside a handful of other houses spread across Bourgogne, Aube and Seine-et-Marne. Its shop, Fromagerie Alain Hess, is located on Place Carnot, in the very centre of Beaune: Brillat-Savarin can be found there alongside a wide range of cow's, goat's and ewe's milk cheeses, while the house also markets its produce to cheesemongers, restaurateurs, wholesalers and delicatessens, as well as for export.

Address7 place Carnot, 21200 Beaune, France
Phone03 80 24 73 51
Emailcontact@fromageriealainhess.com
Websitefromageriealainhess.com
FacebookFacebook page
VisitsYes