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AOC — PDO — Franche-Comté
Each autumn, when the cows descend from the snow-covered alpine pastures, Mont d'Or reappears — runny, resinous, wrapped in its spruce strap, the cheese of long snowy evenings in Haut-Doubs.
Washed-rind cheese from Franche-Comté, PDO (AOP) since 1996.
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The origins of Mont d'Or are inseparable from those of Comté. Autumn and winter bring a period when cows, brought into the barn after grazing, produce less milk: volumes are no longer sufficient to fill the vats for the large wheels of Comté. The farmers of Haut-Doubs thus made the most of this end-of-season milk by crafting a smaller, moister cheese, easy to preserve in its box and spruce bark strap — born of seasonal constraints, it was destined to become one of the most sought-after cheeses in France.
The earliest written mentions of a "cheese encircled by a strap" date back to 1280. Originally, this cheese was called "fromage de boëte" or described as a "fromage dit de crème", and it owes its definitive name to Mont d'Or, the highest mountain in Doubs (1,461 metres), which towers over the production area. It was already being made in the time of Louis XV, with local legend holding that it featured on the royal table.
What gives Mont d'Or its soul is its strap — a strip of spruce bark harvested by specialised craftsmen who are known, not without humour, as the "sangliers". This strap originally served as a single-use mould to hold together the curd, which was still supple and moist when unmoulded; today, it imparts its characteristic woody and resinous aromas. The cheese is then placed in a round spruce-wood box, whose diameter, slightly smaller than that of the cheese, gives it its characteristically rippled rind.
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The fame of Mont d'Or crossed borders well before its official protection: a Swiss cousin, Vacherin Mont-d'Or, is produced in the canton of Vaud and also enjoys a PDO (AOP), protected separately. The two cheeses remain distinct: the French one is officially called "Mont d'Or" or "Vacherin du Haut-Doubs" and is made with raw milk, whereas the Swiss version is made from thermised milk and has a darker rind that is washed more frequently during preparation. A distinction that enthusiasts quickly learn to appreciate.
Appearance
Flat cylinder, box diameter 11 to 33 cm depending on the format (480 g to 3.2 kg). Washed, rippled and lightly bloomed rind, light yellow to pinkish light brown in colour. Paste white to ivory in colour, lightly salted.
Aroma
Balanced scent with woody spruce and animal nuances, alongside aromas of straw and mushrooms.
Taste
Balanced, with lactic flavours of cream or butter, woody aromas of spruce and/or mushroom.
Texture
Creamy consistency; maturation at high temperatures encourages a supple paste, verging on runny.
The milk used is exclusively raw milk from Montbéliarde and Simmental cows (or their crossbreeds), from permanent pastures unploughed for more than five years, at an altitude of over 700 metres.
The raw milk is collected daily and processed within a maximum of 24 hours
The milk, neither thermised nor pasteurised, is renneted raw to obtain the curd
The curd is pressed into cylindrical moulds then unmoulded
The spruce bark strap is applied by hand around the fresh cheese, immediately upon unmoulding
Brining in a tank, before or after strapping
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Beyond being enjoyed cold with a spoon, Mont d'Or can be warmed whole in its wooden box — this is the famous boîte chaude. Simply make an incision in the centre of the cheese, pour in some dry Jura white wine, then bake at 220°C for around 30 minutes. The cheese then melts into a creamy, fragrant fondue to be spooned over steamed potatoes, accompanied by saucisse de Morteau or other cured meats from Haut-Doubs. A winter ritual that has brought people together around the table for generations.
Pour les accords en plateau, le Mont d'Or se déguste également à la cuillère, sur un plateau de fromages. En vin, il s'accompagne traditionnellement de vins blancs ou rouges du Jura.
Since: 1981
Area covered: Haut-Doubs (25), altitude > 700 m
Key requirements: First official protection of the product; raw Montbéliarde/Simmental milk; spruce strap mandatory
Since: 1996
Area covered: Haut-Doubs (25), altitude > 700 m
Key requirements: European extension; production 15 August → 15 March; sale 10 Sept. → 10 May; maturation min. 21 days
Trade association
Family-run
Major artisanal cheese house
Dairy co-operative
Cooperative
Dairy cooperative
Artisan
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