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PGI — Burgundy
“From the archives of the Cistercian abbey of Pontigny to the tables of the Yonne, Soumaintrain carries within it nine centuries of cheesemaking — and the frank aroma of a terroir that has never sought to please everyone.”
Washed-rind cheese from Burgundy, PGI (IGP) since 2016.
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According to writings by the parish priest of Vergigny, Henri Auclerc (1887–1968), the earliest records of matured cheesemaking in the region date back to the 12th century and link it to the Cistercian abbey of Pontigny, founded in 1117: “the Cistercian monks had farm rent paid in matured cheese”.
The village of Soumaintrain, in the canton of Saint-Florentin (Yonne), has remained the recognised historical cradle of this soft, washed-rind cheese.
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Although Soumaintrain is among the oldest cheeses of the Yonne, it remained a product consumed locally until the 19th century, before the expansion of transport links opened up wider markets, reaching as far as Parisian dining tables. It was only in June 2016 that PGI status was obtained at European level. Today, the production area covers 101 communes in the Yonne, 117 in the Côte-d'Or and 48 in the Aube.
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The Soumaintrain PGI sector is structured around two complementary production models: farmhouse dairies, which work with raw milk from their own herd, and commercial dairies, which collect milk from several farmers. In total, it brings together 23 dairy farms, 6 farmhouse dairies (25% of production), 3 commercial dairies (75% of production) and 1 cheese affineur. This duality preserves both the artisanal, family-scale character of Soumaintrain fermier and the consistency of the dairies, which ensure a steady supply all year round.
Appearance
Flat cylinder, diameter of 90 to 130 mm, proportional height (25 to 35% of the diameter), weighing between 180 and 600 g. Thin rind, ivory-yellow to ochre in colour, slightly damp, sometimes wrinkled. Ivory-white paste, soft, smooth, and slightly grainy.
Aroma
Animal or vegetal, pronounced. Depending on the season, aromas of mushroom, humus, hay or straw, occasionally woody, which intensify with maturation.
Taste
Lactic, with a hint of acidity and a “noble” bitterness; lingering flavours on the palate. Milder and creamier when young, more assertive and complex at maturity.
Texture
Soft, melting paste, slightly grainy. Becomes creamy and runny as the rind is regularly washed during maturation.
Techniques limiting the curd's drop height into the mould; for Soumaintrain fermier, manual moulding with a ladle
Spontaneous, in moulds; the cheeses are turned at least once during this stage
Unmoulding at least 20 hours after moulding, followed by dry salting
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Soumaintrain is best enjoyed at room temperature. It finds its natural pairing in Chablis wines: a Petit Chablis or classic Chablis for the least matured Soumaintrain, a Chablis Premier Cru or Grand Cru for the most expressive — a match of geographical proximity, with cheese and wine rooted in the same Yonne terroir and sharing minerality and finesse.
Since: 2016
Area covered: Yonne (101 communes), Aube (48), Côte-d'Or (117)
Key requirements: Whole cow's milk, matured for min. 21 days, washed rind
Family business — founded in 1956
Artisanal cheese dairy — founded in 1946
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