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AOC — PDO — Champagne-Ardenne
A cheese with an unctuous paste and a slightly grainy core, born in the abbeys of Champagne humide — the discreet treasure of the Aube and the Yonne.
Bloomy-rind cheese from Champagne-Ardenne, PDO (AOP) since 1996.
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Chaource is a cheese born in the Middle Ages, in a region marked by the widespread presence of abbeys and commanderies: the monks, who forbade themselves the consumption of meat, turned to cheese and passed their cheesemaking techniques on to the local population. Local tradition traces this origin to the Cistercian abbey of Pontigny, in the Yonne. This know-how was later taken up by the region's farm women in the 17th and 18th centuries, who made the cheese solely for family consumption, following the rhythm of their agricultural work.
The tradition of Chaource is inseparable from the village of Chaource, in the Aube, which gives it its name. The name "fromage de Chaource" is attested by oral tradition from the beginning of the 19th century; its sale at markets is documented as early as 1829, and its production rules are described in two reference works of the period, La Laiterie by Dr Pourriau (1872) and Le Petit Guide de la fermière de l'Aube by M. Huguier-Truelle (1883).
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Champagne humide, where Chaource thrives, is a natural region predominantly of clay and limestone, on the borders of the Aube and the Yonne — to be distinguished from Champagne crayeuse, which is associated with the Champagne vineyards. Its impermeable subsoil, composed of limestone and clay and criss-crossed by numerous watercourses, supports clay soils with constant moisture, favourable to natural meadows but poorly suited to crops.
These natural grasslands nourish the dairy herds of the area, where mixed farming has become widespread in response to the diversity of the soils and the region's harsh continental climate. The production area of Chaource extends across the arrondissement of Troyes, in the Aube, as well as the arrondissements of Avallon and Sens, in the Yonne.
It was in 1970 that Chaource obtained its Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC), official recognition of its territorial roots. Twenty-six years later, in 1996, it attained PDO status at European level.
Appearance
Chaource comes in two regulated formats — a large format (450 to 700 g) and a small format (250 to 380 g), both in the shape of a tall cylinder with flat faces. The rind is predominantly covered with white Penicillium candidum mould, giving it a velvety appearance; a marbled surface due to Geotrichum is permitted. Beneath this rind, the salted paste is both unctuous and fairly firm, with centripetal maturation that, over time, brings out the contrast between a creamy perimeter and a core with a fine, slightly grainy texture.
Aroma
A light smell of fresh mushroom, sometimes heightened by notes of undergrowth, hazelnut and cream.
Taste
A light taste of fresh mushroom, which may develop fruity flavours including hazelnut.
Texture
Unctuous and supple, with the characteristic contrast between the creamy perimeter and the firmer, slightly grainy core. Maturation lasts a minimum of 14 days from the renneting of the milk, including at least 8 days at a temperature between 8 and 14°C.
Chaource is available in two regulated formats, distinguished by their weight and the diameter of the mould used; the regulatory minimum maturation period (14 days from renneting) is the same for both.
450 to 700 g, moulded in a mould with an internal diameter of 110 to 115 mm. Historically, this format is associated with a more pronounced lactic taste and a barely bloomy rind.
250 to 380 g, moulded in a mould with an internal diameter of 85 to 90 mm. Historically, this format was most often matured for longer.
The curd is poured into tall, narrow cylindrical moulds, the shape of which promotes draining solely by gravity.
Natural and spontaneous, aided by a mandatory turning of the mould; it takes place at a temperature between 20 and 30°C.
Exclusively on the surface, with dry salt.
After unmoulding, the cheeses dry for a minimum of 24 hours, at a temperature between 10 and 18°C.
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Chaource is accompanied by the wines of its own terroir: Champagne, Rosé des Riceys, as well as the wines of the Chablisien and the Tonnerrois.
Chaource is traditionally enjoyed with country bread, fresh fruit (white or black grapes, ripe pears) or a drizzle of flower honey over a matured piece.
Since: 1970
Area covered: Arrondissement of Troyes (Aube), arrondissements of Avallon and Sens (Yonne)
Key requirements: Unmodified whole cow's milk, lactic coagulation of at least 12 hours before moulding (without cutting the curd), maturation for a minimum of 14 days from renneting, including 8 days between 8 and 14°C, dairy herd comprising 80% animals from the area, feed consisting of 85% products from the geographical area, of which at least 30% is grass
Since: 1996
Area covered: Arrondissement of Troyes (Aube), arrondissements of Avallon and Sens (Yonne)
Key requirements: European registration of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, confirming the requirements of the national specifications.
Artisanal cheese dairy
Artisanal cheese dairy — founded in 1946
Artisanal manufacturer
Family-owned cheese group
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