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AOC — PDO — Champagne-Ardenne
A few drops of Marc de Bourgogne or Champagne are poured into its golden cuvette: Langres is as much drunk as it is eaten — a border cheese, between two great provinces, carried by the generosity of the plateau.
Washed-rind cheese from Champagne-Ardenne, PDO (AOP) since 2012.
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Langres was born on the plateau that bears its name — the plateau de Langres and the pastures of Bassigny, in Haute-Marne, wedged between the borders of Bourgogne and Champagne. It is precisely this borderland position that gave it its character: a cheese with a powerful washed rind, heir to the Bourgogne tradition of soft cheeses, yet open to neighbouring Champagne whose marc would, one day, elevate its tasting.
The earliest known mention dates back to the mid-18th century, in a song composed by the Prieur des Dominicains de Langres, which evokes the 'bon fromage de Peigney' — a small village about 1 km from Langres. At that time, production was purely farmhouse, destined for family consumption or for sale at local markets. Gradually, trading houses in the town bought the cheeses 'en blanc' from the farmers, matured them in their cellars on plane tree leaves in wicker baskets called chasières, then dispatched their production as far as Paris and, further still, to Switzerland. It was the beginning of a flourishing trade that would shape the identity of the cheese.
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What sets Langres apart from all other washed-rind cheeses is its cuvette — known locally as the fontaine on the Champagne side. This natural cavity that forms at the top of the cheese is not a production defect: it is the direct consequence of a fundamental production rule. Unlike almost all soft cheeses, Langres is never turned during its maturation — or only right at the beginning. Deprived of support on its upper face, the paste sags slightly under its own weight, hollowing out a depression that deepens over the days, until it reaches the regulatory 5 millimetres stipulated in the specifications. The deeper the fontaine, the older the cheese.
This cuvette has become the symbol of the cheese and the centrepiece of a unique table ritual: before serving, a few drops of Marc de Bourgogne or Marc de Champagne are poured into it — or occasionally mirabelle plum eau-de-vie, as offered by Fromagerie Schertenleib with its Mirabella speciality — which slowly seep into the paste, flavouring and softening it. Some producers even offer Langres matured directly with marc, the rind rubbed with the spirit throughout the weeks of maturation.
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Official recognition came in 1991 with the AOC; new specifications, in force since 2008, subsequently led to European PDO recognition in 2012. Yet the sector remains modest: only three cheese dairies produce Langres PDO today, accounting for around 650 tonnes annually — a limited production that preserves the cheese's artisanal character. Among them, Fromagerie Remillet in Genevrières is the only one still making a raw-milk Langres, the last guardian of an unpasteurised cheesemaking tradition that is gradually disappearing.
Appearance
Cylindrical cheese with a wrinkled rind, with an immediately recognisable silhouette
Shape
Cylindrical, with a natural cuvette (the 'fontaine') at the top
Formats
Small (150 to 250 g), matured for at least 15 days; Medium (280 to 350 g), matured for at least 18 days; Large (800 to 1,300 g), matured for at least 21 days
Rind
Washed, wrinkled, light yellow turning to reddish-brown depending on maturation
Paste
White, turning creamy during maturation, centre sometimes chalky in a young cheese
Aroma
Intense, penetrating aroma of cream
Taste
Fruity and lactic (notes of yoghurt and cream), distinctive yet never aggressive
Texture
Fine, creamy and melting
Addition of lactic ferments that curdle the milk
Under the action of lactic bacteria and rennet, in vats of less than 130 litres, for a maximum of 5 hours 30 minutes
Curd sliced and then ladle-moulded into perforated cylindrical moulds, for natural draining lasting at least 15 hours
Unmoulded the following day; the cheeses are placed on racks and immediately salted with dry salt
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Serve Langres at room temperature (30 minutes out of the refrigerator). Pour a tablespoon of Marc de Bourgogne or Champagne into the cuvette — or sometimes mirabelle plum eau-de-vie, like the Mirabella speciality from Fromagerie Schertenleib. Enjoy with a spoon starting from the centre, or cut into wedges, taking care not to spill the precious liquid. Serve with lightly toasted country bread, walnuts, and fresh grapes.
Pairings: the benchmark regional match unites Langres with a blanc de blancs Champagne, whose freshness and minerality contrast with the richness of the cheese; more unusually, a Graves-style red Bordeaux will also appeal to red wine enthusiasts. Marc de Bourgogne or Champagne, poured directly into the fontaine, remains the traditional and most spectacular pairing.
Since: 1991
Area covered: Plateau de Langres and pastures of Bassigny — arrondissements of Chaumont and Langres (Haute-Marne, 52) + canton of Neufchâteau (Vosges, 88) + 4 communes of Côte-d'Or (21)
Key requirements: Whole cow's milk (pasteurised or raw milk); coagulation using lactic ferments and rennet; ladle moulding, natural unpressed draining; cheese turned a maximum of twice during maturation (natural formation of the cuvette); minimum maturation of 15 days (small format) to 21 days (large format); rind washed in salted water with added annatto, light yellow to reddish-brown in colour
Since: 2012
Area covered: Plateau de Langres and pastures of Bassigny — arrondissements of Chaumont and Langres (Haute-Marne, 52) + canton of Neufchâteau (Vosges, 88) + 4 communes of Côte-d'Or (21)
Key requirements: ~650 tonnes produced annually by 3 cheese dairies, including 1 using raw milk
Brotherhood
Family-run
Artisanal manufacturer
Family GAEC
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