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AOC — PDO — Normandy
The Colonel of the Pays d'Auge — this russet, banded cheese, with its intense aroma and melting paste, embodies Norman pride and the rustic virility of the Cauchois terroir, bearing its volatile and generous imprint.
Washed-rind cheese from Normandy, PDO (AOP) since 1996.
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Livarot does not stem from a romantic legend like Camembert — it is a cheese of the people, born of necessity. Appearing towards the end of the Middle Ages in the Pays d'Auge, it was long lumped together, like all the cheeses of the region, under the generic name of 'Angelots' and later 'Augelots'. It only appeared under its definitive name — borrowed from the town of Livarot, near Lisieux — in writings from the late 17th century: as early as 1690 in a document from the bailliage of Caen, then in 1708 in Thomas Corneille's Dictionnaire universel géographique et historique, where it was already sold in Paris.
Dubbed 'poor man's meat' in the 19th century owing to its reddish-orange colour, it was long a farmhouse keeping cheese — preserved for 4 to 6 months, low in fat, protein-rich, with a powerful flavour — made during the summer with skimmed milk once the cream had been skimmed off for butter.
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With the boom of the railway connecting Normandie to Paris in the late 19th century, Livarot reached the cities and enjoyed its heyday: it became the most widely consumed cheese in Normandie, overtaking even Camembert despite its existing renown. Its reddish-orange colour earned it at that time the rather unflattering moniker of 'poor man's meat'.
In the 20th century, its most enduring nickname took hold: 'the Colonel'. It stems from the three to five strips of sedge — marsh reeds — wrapped around the cheese to prevent it from collapsing during maturation, evoking the five stripes of the rank of Colonel in the French army. Originally purely functional, these strips have now become the cheese's visual emblem.
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In 1975, Livarot obtained the AOC, converted to PDO in 1996. This protection aims to preserve authenticity in the face of industrialisation in the sector. Today, the great historic houses such as Graindorge (founded in 1910 in Livarot) perpetuate the traditions of 'the Colonel'.
Appearance
Washed orange-red rind, lustrous, smooth to slightly wrinkled. Five white strips encircle the disc. Diameter 12–13 cm, thickness 4–5 cm. Weight 450–500 g.
Aroma
Strong and distinctive — powerful animal bouquet, brine-washed, damp mushroom, notes of undergrowth. Less aggressive than Munster, but more pronounced than Pont-l'Évêque.
Taste
Full-bodied and complex flavour — powerful, salty, slightly sharp on the finish. Very pronounced raw milk taste, notes of hazelnut and mushroom. Less aggressive on the palate than on the nose — a pleasant surprise. Slightly peppery finish.
Texture
Melting and supple — homogeneous paste, without holes. Light beige to chamois in colour. Nearly creamy towards the end of maturation, never pasty. Pleasant elasticity on the palate.
(1.2 to 1.5 kg, Ø 19–21 cm) — the largest size, minimum 35 days' maturation.
(450–500 g, Ø 12–12.8 cm) — the classic size, minimum 35 days' maturation.
(330–350 g, Ø 10.7–11.5 cm) — intermediate size, minimum 21 days' maturation.
(200–270 g, Ø 8–9.4 cm) — smaller size, minimum 21 days' maturation.
Unpasteurised whole milk, specified lactic starters and rennet. Coagulation at 36–38°C for 30–40 min.
Curd cut into medium grains (1 cm), slow and gradual stirring. Reheating to 40–42°C over 40–60 min.
Poured into perforated moulds. Rested for 18–24 hours at 16–18°C, 90% humidity, with regular turnings.
After 24 hours, transferred to a damp cellar (12–14°C, 95% humidity) on wooden racks.
Once mature, individually packaged. Ideal consumption window: 3–5 days after purchase.
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Remove from the fridge 1–2 hours before tasting to release the aromas. Spooned rind and paste together, on unbuttered white bread. The ideal regional pairing remains cidre brut normand, whose effervescence deacidifies the palate, or a dry, mineral white wine (Muscadet, Albariño). In cooking, Livarot is used in tarts (sliced cheese with onion confit and honey), in scrambled eggs, or melted over a Pays d'Auge burger.
Since: 1975
Area covered: Calvados (14), Orne (61), Eure (27) — Pays d'Auge (290 communes)
Key requirements: Cow's milk exclusively from the Normande breed, grazing ≥6 months/year; maturation ≥21 days (3/4 and Petit sizes) or ≥35 days (4/4 and Grand sizes) with at least 3 washings; bound with 3 to 5 strips; 4 sizes from 200g to 1.5kg; no imported milk
Since: 1996
Area covered: Calvados (14), Orne (61), Eure (27) — Pays d'Auge (290 communes)
Key requirements: European registration of the appellation d'origine contrôlée, confirming the requirements of the national specifications.
Major artisanal cheese house
Artisan cheese dairy
Artisanal cheese dairy
Major artisan cheese dairy
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Request a listingMajor artisanal cheese house
Fromagerie E. Graindorge describes itself as having made the four Normandy PDO (AOP) cheeses in Livarot since 1910, championing raw milk and the Normande breed in strict compliance with the specifications of the Protected Designations of Origin. It prides itself on passing down know-how and values — tradition, simplicity, gourmandise — across generations.
The house offers tours of the cheese dairy and runs a "Club des amateurs de fromages Graindorge", built around the concept of sponsoring a Normande cow.
Lyon
Mondial du Fromage et des Produits Laitiers · Tours
| Address | 42 Rue Gén Leclerc, 14140 Livarot-Pays-d'Auge, France |
| 02 31 48 20 00 | |
| graindorge.fr | |
| Facebook page | |
| @fromageriegraindorge | |
| Visits | Yes — integrated Musée du Livarot + shop |
|
Part of the production is certified organic, since 2018. |
Artisanal cheese dairy
Fromagerie de la Houssaye is a workshop belonging to Groupe Beillevaire, located in Boissey, in Calvados. The group presents it as a maker of washed-rind cheeses: Livarot PDO (AOP), Pont-l'Évêque, as well as its own creations such as Pavé d'Auge, Deauville and Saint-Pierre. Milk is collected from farms situated close to the dairy, then processed on site.
The group also indicates that the workshop is committed to promoting local cheesemaking traditions and supporting the regional economy.
| groupe-beillevaire.com | |
| Visits | Yes |
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Part of the production is certified organic, since 2024. |
