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AOC — PDO — Rhône-Alpes
A stone's throw from Lyon, on the Rhône hillsides that also produce Viognier, Rigotte de Condrieu is the winemakers' little goat's cheese — tiny, aromatic, to be savoured in the sun.
Goat’s cheese from Rhône-Alpes, PDO (AOP) since 2013.
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The Pilat massif, a mid-mountain area south-west of Lyon, between the Rhône valley and the Monts du Forez at the eastern edge of the Massif Central, is traversed by "rigots" — small, winding streams that tumble down its slopes. It is from these streams that the cheese takes its name: Rigotte, from the local patois "rigot" or "rigol". Here, goats graze on the rich flora of the massif's pastures, a strength of the terroir that the rugged terrain has preserved from intensive farming.
As early as 1765, the naturalist Alléon Dullac mentioned goat's cheeses in the Pilat — the earliest known reference. In the 19th century, Baron Raverat wrote in 1865: "A great many goats are reared in the region, whose milk yields excellent little cheeses called rigottes, which are exported to all the surrounding towns and even as far as Lyon itself."
Traditionally, it was the women who made these rigottes: they cared for the goats on the farms and turned the milk into cheese ("fromageaient"); the goats were, moreover, nicknamed "the women's purse". They sold most of their production at the Condrieu market, which in the 19th century became the main trading hub for the cheese — and gave it its name.
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For a long time, Rigotte remained a cheese of purely local renown. It was not until 1988 that the Comité de Promotion de la Rigotte de Condrieu, which has since become the Syndicat de Défense de l'Appellation, initiated the process towards official recognition. It was granted Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée status on 13 January 2009, then PDO status in 2013, extending protection across Europe. A belated officialisation of a centuries-old tradition, and modern recognition of a rural women's heritage.
Appearance
Small circular disc 4.2 to 5 cm in diameter, minimum weight of 30 g. Fine, diverse surface flora, which can be ivory, white or blue depending on the age and origin of the cheese.
Aroma
Aromas of hazelnut, undergrowth and whey, developing into notes of mushroom and butter.
Taste
A cheese best not eaten too dry; on tasting, aromas of hazelnut, undergrowth and whey.
Texture
Firm, smooth paste with no holes, melting in the mouth.
Rigotte fraîche — May be sold from 8 days of age (the mandatory minimum set by the product specification), for a cheese that melts in the mouth.
Rigotte affinée — Affinage can extend up to 3 years for a dry, creamy version; the one-month affinage milestone is renowned for its melting texture and distinctive creaminess.
Raw, whole goat's milk, collected in the Pilat massif.
Lactic curd, with ferments developing over 2 to 3 weeks.
Addition of rennet, resting for 20 to 24 hours.
Careful moulding, by hand.
Very light salting, with dry salt, on both sides.
Rapid drying of the cheeses.
From 8 days minimum (mandatory) up to 3 years for a dry, creamy version.
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A diminutive cheese requiring a delicate approach. To be nibbled rather than spread. Subtle flavour, complexity hidden in its smallness.
Wine pairings: This cheese pairs particularly well with the white wines of the neighbouring Condrieu PDO (Viognier) — in fact, every 1 May the two appellations organise a joint festival, "Vin et Rigotte de Condrieu en fête".
Since: 2009
Area covered: Pilat massif — 48 communes in the Loire (42) and Rhône (69)
Key requirements: Raw, whole goat's milk
Since: 2013
Area covered: Pilat massif — 48 communes in the Loire (42) and Rhône (69)
Key requirements: Identical product specification
The INAO product specification (IdProduit 16969) stipulates: exclusively raw and whole goat's milk, circular disc 4.2 to 5 cm in diameter, minimum weight of 30 g, sale permitted from 8 days of age (mandatory minimum) and up to several years of affinage, production limited to the Pilat massif (altitude 150 to 1,400 m, 48 communes in the Loire and Rhône).
Trade association
GAEC
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