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PDO — Midi-Pyrénées
A tiny white disc perched like the village that gave it its name, Rocamadour is the smallest cheese PDO in France — and one of the most delicate.
Goat’s cheese from Midi-Pyrénées, PDO (AOP) since 1996.
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The village of Rocamadour, clinging to the limestone cliffs of the Lot, is world-famous for its Marian sanctuary and dizzying alleyways. The little goat's cheese that bears its name is among the oldest productions in Quercy: as early as the 15th century, an emphyteutic lease from 1451 set the value of the tithe owed to the monastery of Obazine in Rocamadour cheeses — the Cistercian monks of the Marian city, who discouraged the consumption of meat, were among the earliest champions of this goat's cheese. Originally, these cheeses, born of the need to preserve surplus milk, could be made indiscriminately from cow's, goat's or sheep's milk.
The cheese took the name of the region's most illustrious village as its reputation spread beyond the borders of Quercy. Several accounts mark its history: a menu offered to President Poincaré in 1913 by the Conseil général du Lot already featured Rocamadour cheese, and the book « Fromages de France » (1953, prefaced by Curnonsky) describes it under the name of Cabécou, then weighing around 40 grammes. Its small size — around 35 grammes today — makes it a gentle cheese, to be shared by the handful at the end of a meal.
The designation of origin, recognised by decree in 1996, finally protected this production against imitations and precisely defined the conditions for rearing the goats — of the Alpine or Saanen breed, or their cross —, the geographical area of the Causses du Quercy and the production parameters. Today, the sector accounts for around 17,500 goats across 35 farmhouse producers, 44 milk producers and 3 artisan processors; in 2018, more than 33 million Rocamadour cheeses were sold, representing nearly 1,300 tonnes of cheese.
Rocamadour presents as a tiny disc weighing 35 to 40 grammes and measuring 3 to 5 centimetres in diameter, with a pearly white appearance when young. The smooth, moist surface sometimes shows slight signs of drying that begin to wrinkle the skin. After maturing for a few days, the rind takes on a more golden-yellow hue and develops light white or blue moulds.
The aroma evolves remarkably with age: very mild and lactic straight out of the minimum maturation period (six days, the threshold set by the product specifications), it gradually acquires more pronounced caprine notes, along with hazelnut, mushroom and undergrowth as ageing progresses. On the palate, the young paste is melt-in-the-mouth, almost runny at its heart, with a mild and slightly tangy flavour. Once aged, it becomes firmer, its flavour strengthens and gains in complexity: lingering, slightly sharp on the finish, with a very elegant, gentle bitterness.
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Raw, whole milk from goats of the Alpine or Saanen breed, or their cross, is renneted at a temperature between 18 and 23°C. Curdling, predominantly lactic, lasts for at least twenty hours, followed by draining for at least twelve hours before the curd, which is very fragile, is salted throughout by kneading and then moulded — in individual moulds or in traditional multi-mould trays — without any pressing. This gentle handling preserves its characteristic melting texture.
Maturation then takes place in two stages: a drying-off period of at least twenty-four hours, followed by time in a curing room or cellar at a minimum of 10°C with humidity exceeding 85%, for a total maturation period of at least six days from unmoulding. Producers offer Rocamadour cheeses at varying stages of maturity, with the rind developing and the aromas intensifying as ageing progresses.
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Rocamadour is enjoyed on its own, at room temperature (16–18°C), to appreciate the full breadth of its aromas. When young, it pairs well with a walnut and rocket salad drizzled with a light walnut-vinegar dressing. When mature, it bakes wonderfully in the oven for a few minutes and is served melted on croûtons or in a salade landaise.
Wine pairings are plentiful: a white Cahors (or Malbec vinified as a white wine), a light Pécharmant or, for the classic Quercy pairing, a light, fruity Cahors rosé. Lovers of contrast will appreciate a sweet Sauternes or Jurançon moelleux with a young Rocamadour, the cheese's lactic acidity contrasting admirably with the richness of the wine.
Rocamadour was long called « fromage de Rocamadour » or « Cabécou de Rocamadour » — « cabécou » being the Occitan term referring more broadly to small goat's cheeses of the South-West, of which several variations exist outside the PDO, notably in neighbouring Périgord. Versions coated in crushed walnuts, Quercy herbs or pink peppercorns are offered by certain artisan producers for sale at markets and from cheesemongers.
Since: 1996
Area covered: Causses du Quercy (Lot, Aveyron, Corrèze, Dordogne, Tarn-et-Garonne)
Key requirements: Raw, whole goat's milk (Alpine or Saanen breed), weight of around 35 g, minimum 6 days' maturation
Defence and management organisation
GAEC
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