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AOC — PDO — Auvergne
Salers is only made when Salers cows graze on the grass of the volcanoes — from May to October, in the estives of Cantal. Out of season, it simply does not exist.
Uncooked pressed cheese from Auvergne, PDO (AOP) since 2009.
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The Salers cow originated in the mountains of Cantal, but its modern history dates back to the 19th century, when Tyssandier d'Escous, mayor of Saint-Bonnet-de-Salers, undertook the selective breeding of the breed from local cows around 1850, culminating in organising the breed's first departmental competition in 1853. Elegant, with a handsome mahogany coat and lyre-shaped horns, the Salers quickly became emblematic of the volcanic highlands. The cheese itself is far older than the breed that would give it its name: its production reportedly dates back more than two thousand years in this region. From spring to autumn, farmers moved up to the estive (high-altitude pasture) at nearly 900 metres to let their cows graze the rich, diverse grass of the Monts du Cantal and Monts Dore.
Salers alone can lay claim to this unique requirement: to be made only when grass grows on the volcanoes, from 15 April to 15 November exactly. This window is no commercial gimmick — it embodies the very essence of terroir. The volcanic soils of the Cantal massif, rich in phosphoric acid, potash and magnesia, give the grass a lush, abundant flora that infuses the milk and irrevocably distinguishes Salers from the region's other cheeses.
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Salers was granted AOC status as early as 1961 (under the name 'Salers Haute-Montagne'), one of the very first cheese protections in France, before becoming a PDO at European level in 2009. Since then, the specifications have continually been refined to preserve the product's authenticity. A decisive distinction exists: 'Salers Tradition' is made exclusively with milk from pure-bred Salers cows, whilst 'Salers-Salers', which accounts for the vast majority of production, may be made with milk from any dairy breed — most often Montbéliarde — with no breed requirement imposed by the specifications. Salers Tradition, reserved for around fifteen producers, remains the version most sought after by purists.
Appearance
Dry, pitted rind, golden to ochre in colour, naturally mottled with red, orange and yellow moulds; firm paste ranging from ivory to straw-yellow, taking on more golden hues with ageing.
Aroma
Rich, varied aromas, predominantly lactic, vegetal and fruity — notes of grass, hay, walnut, hazelnut, citrus, butter and fermented cream.
Taste
Each cheese has a unique flavour, varying with the meadow, the estive and each producer's know-how; intensity and length on the palate increase with maturation.
Texture
Uncooked pressed paste, firm, with the characteristic mesh-like texture of an agglomerate of crushed and compacted tome; crumbly towards the end of maturation.
Salers Tradition — Milk exclusively from pure-bred Salers cows, whose milking requires the calf's presence. More pronounced flavour, assertive character. The rarest product, made by around fifteen producers only.
Salers-Salers — Milk from any dairy breed, most often Montbéliarde; no breed criterion is imposed by the specifications. More balanced flavour. Accounts for the vast majority of production.
In the 'catchaïre', with successive manual cuttings and turnings, until a minimum dry matter of 54% is reached.
Resting for 8 to 12 hours for the acidification of the tome, followed by a maturation phase of equivalent duration.
Under the 'pesadou', for around forty-eight hours, with regular turning to ensure even drainage.
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A complex cheese that calls for a thoughtful approach. Best enjoyed in the afternoon, once the warmth of the day has awakened the paste. Serve with wholemeal or Breton bread (its power demands contrast).
Wine pairings: Mountain red wines (Côtes d'Auvergne, Saint-Chély d'Apcher), red Saint-Nectaire, Côtes du Forez.
Cider pairings: Dry, sparkling farmhouse cider (Bretagne, Normandie).
Classic spirit: Eau-de-vie de marc d'Auvergne.
Since: 1961
Area covered: 137 communes in Cantal, 24 in Puy-de-Dôme, 5 in Aveyron, 1 in Corrèze (production) + communes in Haute-Loire (maturing)
Key requirements: Raw milk, farmhouse production in a gerle, matured for a minimum of 3 months
Since: 2009
Area covered: 137 communes in Cantal, 24 in Puy-de-Dôme, 5 in Aveyron, 1 in Corrèze (production) + communes in Haute-Loire (maturing)
Key requirements: Identical specifications
Production strictly from 15 April to 15 November — raw milk mandatory. The Salers cow only yields her milk in the presence of her calf, a distinctive trait preserved for the making of Salers Tradition. Imposing wheel format (30–50 kg after maturing), unwashed, natural rind.
Affineur
GAEC
GAEC
GAEC
GAEC
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The company describes itself as the master affineur of the brand L'Empereur, maturing and marketing Auvergne PDO (AOP) cheeses — Cantal, Salers and Saint-Nectaire — in the heart of the Parc naturel régional des Volcans d'Auvergne, in Cantal. It also indicates that it offers a range of fresh and dairy products, and operates a direct-sales shop, La Cave de Marcel.
It dates its beginnings to 1967, starting with dairy delivery rounds that evolved over the decades into maturing the region's emblematic PDO cheeses. It claims more than 12,000 m² dedicated to its operations, blending traditional maturation methods with modern facilities that meet current standards.
| Address | 13 Rte de Murat, 15170 NEUSSARGUES, France |
| +33 4 71 20 51 93 | |
| marcel-charrade.fr | |
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Part of the production is certified organic, since 2000. |
