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AOC — PDO — Centre-Val de Loire
The truncated pyramid of Berry — elegant and ash-coated, it carries within it the legend of Talleyrand decapitating the cheeses before Napoleon, the true history of a Berry church steeple, and five centuries of goat-farming know-how on the slopes of the Indre.
Goat’s cheese from Centre-Val de Loire, PDO (AOP) since 2014.
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The history of Valençay dates back long before Napoleon. On the loamy and clay-limestone soils of lower Berry — the territory of the modern-day Indre department, divided into four small agricultural regions (Boischaut Nord, Champagne Berrichonne, Brenne, Boischaut Sud) —, the presence of goats has been attested since the capitularies of Charlemagne and the archives of La Châtre in the 16th century. These terroirs, with an oceanic climate marked by continental influences, are particularly well suited to the forage grasses and legumes that nourish the goat herds. The cheese's distinctive pyramidal shape is said to have been inspired by the steeple of the church in Levroux, an historic Berry market town set at the heart of the production area — where the cheese is believed to have been born.
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If Valençay is known throughout the world, it is largely thanks to a delightful anecdote featuring Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, Napoleon's Minister of Foreign Affairs and owner of the Château de Valençay. While hosting the Emperor at his table, who was still bruised by memories of the disastrous Egyptian campaign, Talleyrand reportedly ordered the cheese-makers in the midst of banquet preparations to slice off the tops of all the slender pyramid-shaped cheeses, for fear that they might remind Napoleon of his defeats in the Middle East. Ever since, according to legend, Valençay has always been made in this truncated form — Talleyrand's role in altering the mould is even mentioned in the appellation's official specification. This tale, perhaps embellished over time, helped give the cheese its international renown and forever linked the château's name with its decapitated pyramid.
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Valençay obtained its Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée in 1998 — late recognition compared to its neighbour Selles-sur-Cher (1975), but a well-deserved accolade. European PDO status followed in 2014. The production area covers 228 communes spread across four departments: primarily Indre (36), but also Loir-et-Cher (41), Cher (18), and Indre-et-Loire (37). The specification stipulates whole, raw milk from Alpine or Saanen goats, an obligatory truncated pyramid shape, vegetable charcoal ash coating, and a minimum maturation of eleven days from renneting. The sector comprises 68 operators: 59 milk producers, 26 farmhouse producers, 1 cooperative, 6 industrial dairies, and 35 affineurs, yielding a marketed output of around 330 tonnes per year.
Valençay is instantly recognisable: a truncated pyramid with a square base 7 to 8 cm wide and 6 to 7 cm high, weighing around 220 g (with a "Petit Valençay" variation at 110 g), dressed in a light grey to bluish-grey coat from its vegetable charcoal ash coating. The rind is thin and bloomy with moulds — Geotrichum, Penicillium, and yeasts — that develop during maturation. The paste is porcelain white, homogeneous, smooth, and fine, with no openings.
Appearance
Truncated pyramid with a square base, light grey to bluish-grey coat, thin bloomy rind
Aroma
Lightly goaty, of undergrowth and mushrooms, enhanced by floral nuances
Taste
Very delicate goat flavour at the start of maturation, becoming fuller over time, with notes of hazelnut and dried fruit
Texture
Unctuous and melting early in maturation, evolving towards a firmer texture with age
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Ash coating — applying salt and vegetable charcoal to every face of the cheese after unmoulding — is no mere aesthetic whim. Together with the gradual development of the surface bloom during slow maturation, this ancient technique plays an active part in regulating moisture exchange and developing the product's taste and aromas. The result is a protective rind that preserves the melting softness of the interior paste.
Raw, whole, unhomogenised goat's milk from Alpine or Saanen breeds (or crossbreeds)
Lactic ripening of the milk, followed by low-dose renneting
Slow, predominantly lactic curdling, for at least 18 hours, at a temperature not exceeding 25 °C
Filling the truncated pyramidal moulds by ladling the curd directly, without applying any pressure
Spontaneous draining in the mould, without pressure, for at least 20 hours
Surface salting and coating with vegetable charcoal ash on all faces
At least 11 days from renneting, in a room kept at 10 °C or above, until a bloomy rind of moulds appears
Analytical and organoleptic testing by sample testing prior to marketing
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Valençay is best enjoyed at room temperature, taken out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving. It can be sold from the 11th day of maturation: when young, it is fresh, creamy, and unctuous; more mature, it develops notes of hazelnut and dried fruit, with a fuller flavour. It naturally takes its place on a regional cheeseboard alongside Chavignol, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Selles-sur-Cher, and Sainte-Maure de Touraine.
Wine pairings: Valençay is the only town in France to share its name with two appellations — an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée wine and this PDO cheese — and the classic pairing is therefore with a Valençay Blanc AOC, a wine of its own terroir. It can also be paired with other Loire wines from Berry, either whites or light reds.
Since: 1998
Area covered: 228 communes: Indre (36), Loir-et-Cher (41), Cher (18), Indre-et-Loire (37)
Key requirements: Raw, whole goat's milk (Alpine, Saanen or crossbreed), mandatory truncated pyramid shape with a square base coated in vegetable charcoal ash, maturation min. 11 days from renneting, dry matter min. 40% of total weight
Since: 2014
Area covered: 228 communes: Indre (36), Loir-et-Cher (41), Cher (18), Indre-et-Loire (37)
Key requirements: Ditto — European recognition of the same specification
Valençay has been protected by AOC since 1998 and PDO (AOP) since 2014. The sector comprises 68 operators: 59 milk producers, 26 farmhouse producers, 1 cooperative, 6 industrial dairies, and 35 affineurs. The truncated pyramid shape with a square base and vegetable charcoal ash coating are mandatory under the specification.
GAEC — family farm
EARL — family farm
EARL — family farm
Artisanal enterprise
Artisanal industry
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